O'Brien's Grille is probably the best restaurant on the West Bank, a part of the metro that's currently at low ebb in its restaurant population. Back in the golden days of oil companies and their supporting casts of companies, many first-class restaurants could by found for a business lunch or dinner. (There was even a time when three of the five restaurants accorded a five-star rating by this column were across the river.) I don't mean that as a discount for owner Ken Theriot's food and service. He came from one of those five-star places: LeRuth's, no less. The menu isn't as ambitious as it was at that legendary dining mecca, but you can see, taste, and feel the sophistication. He says business is pretty good, even with the price of oil still cratering. The place was nearly full on my recent dinner there. Less than a full load was at the bar, but I did hear three martinis being shaken up until Ken got around to mine.
Although you would not guess this from the exterior, O'Brien's Grille has the style, food and service enough for a special dining occasion. In early afternoon a mix of business lunchers and friends fills the booth-like tables. At dinner, the lights get low and nearly everybody in the place seems to be out on a date.
O'Brien's opened in 2008. It was one of the few major restaurants to open that year, and one of the two or three best. Owner Ken Theriot's career has made the rounds of the great restaurants in local culinary history. Chef Matt Donelon also worked with some of the great local chefs, but more important isw that he has remained here for most of O'Brien's tenure.
The exterior has the look of a bank records-storage office. Inside, it's much more interesting, an art deco design that's almost sleek. The windows are too high to see through and shuttered with blinds anyway, lending a borderline speakeasy quality. Many of the tables are booths. The wine list has enough bottles of interest to serve well. All this comes together to create a terrific venue for the second or third date, or beyond.
Make a reservation, requesting a booth. The tables in the center are sort of out in space.
| Attitude | 1 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 1 |
| Hipness | 0 |
| Local Color | 0 |
| Service | 2 |
| Value | 1 |
| Wine | 1 |
