Not many people drive through Harahan or River Ridge en route to somewhere else. Maybe that's why through most of its history Harahan hasn't had many restaurants above the neighborhood-joint category. And not many of those, either. With a menu and style in sync with the hippest Italian restaurants in the area, Oak Oven's opening was bound to attract attention. It did, and that's almost the only problem facing you and me when it comes to eating here.
The centerpiece of Oak Oven is described exactly by its name. Pizza is the mainstay of the seemingly abbreviated menu, but all the other major Italian food groups are represented here. But this is not your standard big-appetite New Orleans-Italian eat place. The food shows up in modest, handsome presentations of pristine ingredients. They must be doing something right, because the main challenge is here is in getting a table. The old trick of showing up when it opens at five doesn't work, because everybody in Harahan eats at five.
Two years ago, chef and co-owner Adam Superneau immersed himself in the culture of Sicily for enough months to become almost disoriented (Italy can have that effect) but ultimately inspired. He and his two partners--lifelong friends and Blue Jays all--have unimpeachable New Orleans/Sicilian/food roots. John Matassa is the grandson of record producer-grocer Cosimo Matassa, one of the two or three most important figures in the history of New Orleans music. Thomas Macaluso's and Adam's forebears were also in the local grocery business. The three opened Oak Oven in late 2013.
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Drum with pesto pasta and crabmeat.[/caption]
The restaurant is much too small for the crowds this outstanding food attracts. It was formerly the dine-in area of a Popeyes, with the floating ceiling and the tile floors removed to create a rustic effect. The walls are lined with photos of the owners' Sicilian ancestors. Oak Oven is just finished an outdoor dining area. The servers are happily hospitable, and the chef and partners make frequent visits to the dining room to check on things.
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Veal piccata.[/caption]
Even if it's hard to get your head around the idea, make a reservation. You might still have to wait a few minutes. Unless you eat like a bird, you will need at least two courses here. (The prices are in line with that.)
| Attitude | 3 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 0 |
| Hipness | 3 |
| Local Color | 2 |
| Service | 2 |
| Value | 2 |
| Wine | 1 |
