Orleans Grapevine

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

Remember wine bars? They made their big splash here in the 1980s. After a golden decade they faded, as restaurants co-opted the idea by offering dozens of wines by the glass. But wine bars never went away entirely. New ones continue to open sporadically--particularly as restaurants and bars have become more like one another. Here is a particularly good such place.

Why It's Essential

The intentions of Orleans Grapevine are clear. The large, heavy document that follows you to the table is the wine list, whose depth of vinous offerings rival those of all but the best-stocked major restaurants. It begins with only three pages of food. One of those is devoted to small plates. These are as ambitious as the main courses, and work well if you want to conduct a wine tasting at the bar--not a bad idea. The full-fledged entrees include good fresh fish, fish courtbouillon, a rack of lamb, a couple of steaks, and a double-cut pork chop. So it's not just light dining to go with the wines.

Backstory

Owners Pam Fortner and Earl Bernhardt opened in the Orleans Grapevine in 2002. It was a long jump from their other French Quarter business: four loud Tropical Isle bars on Bourbon Street. In its quiet sophistication, the Grapevine could not be more different. The building went up in 1809, when Orleans Street and the blocks around it were the center of the performing arts in New Orleans.

Dining Room

The premises will please those who like having dinner at Antoine's followed by drinks at the Napoleon House. The main room's U-shaped bar is the focus of a distinctly French Quarter environment, with low lighting, irregular hand-made surfaces, and high ceilings. An unmanned piano that plays soft cabaret music all the time. A recent renovation made courtyard dining more appealing--at least when the weather cools. The service staff knows the wine and food well enough to make sensible recommendations. [caption id="attachment_34877" align="alignnone" width="480"] Pompano with crabmeat.[/caption]

For Best Results

Throughout the menu, wine pairings are available, and three-wine flights along eight different themes can be arranged. Take advantage. This is a great medium-price restaurant to bring out-of-town visitors, who will find the place exactly how they envision a French Quarter cafe.