After five repasts at the year-old R'evolution, I'm still not sure what to make of it other than the obvious: that it's the most hyped New Orleans restaurant since the opening of Emeril's. If you were not subjected to the advances, you'll come away from it reasonably impressed, probably by the food and certainly by the environment. And that's without getting the $200 Caviar Staircase. Those of us who were subjected to the months of press releases and rumors, on the other hand, may have been less than blown away by the reality. I suspect this restaurant will require many more months of evolution before it figures out what it is.
One matter of note slipped by almost unnoticed. The coming of R'evolution spelled the end of Begue's and its Sunday brunch buffet after 43 years.
The potential pleasures come at you from all directions at once. Opulent, imaginatively furnished dining rooms are served by an eager, faithful cadre of servers. Behind the scenes (mostly) is a heavily-staffed kitchen working on an all-encompassing menu. The tout ensemble is inspired by two chefs from the upper reaches of the American cooking totem, with very different culinary backgrounds. The wine cellar represents an investment in seven figures. While you wait for a table (as you just might), the oversize, handsome bar engages you with a strong artisanal-cocktail offering. At the end, the financial investment is only as lofty as you expected. It all begs to persuade you that you have had an unforgettable evening. And that's where I freeze up. Is it, or isn't it? Beyond the novelty period, I mean?
R'evolution is the new main restaurant of the Royal Sonesta Hotel, in partnership with chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto. Folse is a major figure in the reinvention and popularization of Cajun and Creole food from the 1970s onward. Although it's been awhile since he ran an a full-time a la carte restaurant, he has always had many pots on the stove. Tramonto is one of the best-known chefs in Chicago, famous for a restaurant called Tru (still there, but without him). His palate has tilts in the directions of Italy and grand spectacle. He came to New Orleans at Folse's prompting to help out after Katrina, and became sympatico with our. This new restaurant was almost a year in the making, opening in spring 2012 to raves which have died down a bit.
R'evolution is a striking restaurant, so distinctive in its design that it's worth a tour through all the public spaces. The dining rooms are modest in size and different from one another in decor. One features an open kitchen with a communal chef's table. Another has glassed-in coolers with sides of aging beef and curing sausages on display. Only one has tablecloths. Louisiana themes are everywhere. Again, this is reminiscent of Antoine's, Arnaud's, and Broussard's. In contrast are ultra-modern touches (menus on iPads) and some contrived ones (caviar served on a little glass staircase). The bar is engaging and comfortable enough to serve as yet another dining room.
I'd specify the one room that has tablecloths in your reservation. It would probably be a good idea to look over the way-too-long menu online before you go, or over cocktails in the bar. (Although each visit seems to present a shorter menu.)
| Attitude | 1 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 3 |
| Hipness | 2 |
| Local Color | 3 |
| Service | 1 |
| Value | 0 |
| Wine | 3 |
