Santa Fe

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

Santa Fe never was a lot like the other Mexican restaurants around town. It's only lately, as innovative new Mexican cafes like Johnny Sanchez and Mizado have put a new spin on the cuisine, that that Santa Fe begins to seem conventional. After all, it was founded by a German chef, who never hesitated to experiment. Although you can certainly indulge in a Dos XX with a basket of chips and salsa, then follow through with enchiladas, tamales, and tacos, following that strategy leaves the best food here unordered. Digging into the chef's specials reveals an imaginative kitchen with the Mexican flavor being only one facet. And, before any New Mexicans get too excited, the restaurant's name does not bring forth the cooking of Santa Fe itself, no matter how welcome those flavors would be.

Backstory

The original Santa Fe opened in 1985 on the corner of Dauphine and Frenchmen in the Marigny Triangle. There German-born, first owner Mark Hollger--a classically-trained European chef--explored his fascination with Mexico. This attracted a clientele so devoted that getting a table was always a battle. A few years before Katrina, Hollger developed a health problem and sold Santa Fe. It would never be the same afterwards, but it ultimately would remain excellent. Its second heyday began in 2009, when a former cook from the glory days reopened Santa Fe it in the former Gabrielle on Esplanade Avenue. (The original Santa Fe had become another restaurant.) Although the new owners reinstalled many of the old dishes, at least half the menu is original, and at least as good as anything I've had at any point in the restaurant's history.

Dining Room

The building began its life long ago as a hamburger stand. Although Greg and Mary Sonnier made the space work for their ambitious Creole menu, the triangular space never really worked well for table service, and still doesn't. It's a bit noisy and cramped badly in certain corners. The tables most in demand are those on the sidewalk in front, illuminated by tiki torches.

For Best Results

Query the server about specials (there will behave more than you might imagine), and offbeat regular menu items. Take a leap of faith that these dishes can coexist with the rich, exciting Mexican flavor palette.