When I began this column, the editor told me to mix up fancy places for taking clients with quick, uncomplicated eateries for busy days. I have been lax in my coverage of the latter here. And with the holidays upon us, the need to feed the troops in the facility grows. This place makes sandwiches of such excellence that it works for both scenarios. The absence of poor boys sets it apart. This is a rare restaurant where getting take-out is a much better idea than eating in. The place is nothing on looks.
You can count the number of New York-style delicatessens in New Orleans on the fingers of one hand--even if you've had a table saw accident. Although it's not even close to being kosher (they sell as much Italian-style salumi as they do kosher-style meats) Stein's probably is the best of them. Owner Dan Stein keeps his cases stocked with meats, cheeses, and breads of the highest order, and always has something new interesting for you to try if you show an interest.
Owner Dan Stein opened the deli in 2006 after working awhile at Martin Wine Cellar and a few other restaurants.
A very old building in the equally antique Magazine commercial district houses the deli and some other offbeat shops. Not much has been done to renovate or dress up the space. Tables, display cases, and counters are all shoved in wherever they fit. Sausages, hams, and cheeses hang about. The place smells good. It's ramshackle and sometimes a little messy.
Although you can't drink it on the premises, beer is available in amazing variety, including some rarities. Also here: a smattering of gourmet groceries. Don't come in a huge hurry. Grab any space that comes open and be prepared to tidy it up a bit.
| Attitude | 1 |
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| Environment | 0 |
| Hipness | 1 |
| Local Color | 1 |
| Service | 0 |
| Value | 1 |
| Wine | 0 |
