Tommy's Cuisine

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

New Orleans differs from most other great restaurant cities in that its menus are dominated by seafood. Even in grand old restaurants in which beef and lamb are prime, it's the allure of the fish and shellfish that sets them apart. Part of this can be explained by the difficulty of buying good seafood. Although that's easier here than in most places, it still requires spending lots of time on the phone tracking down the good stuff. No chef has a standing order for red snapper or pompano that they can count on. They must track it down. With a long history of great food and service and a chef who came from Galatoire's, Tommy's seafood side is very strong. You could eat here ten times without ever leaving the fish, oysters, shrimp, crawfish, soft-shells, and especially the crabmeat.

Why It's Essential

After decades of managing classy local dining rooms, Tommy Andrade became a culinary entrepreneur. His experience in the front of the house and his staff of veteran chefs and servers make his flagship restaurant (he's involved in two others) as popular as any other restaurant in town--including his neighbor Emeril's. More interested in making people happy than in showing how his kitchen can jump through hoops, Tommy and company relax on the traditional Creole-French-Italian side. You've seen this food before, but you're very glad to see it again--especially given the goodness of the ingredients. [caption id="attachment_37163" align="alignnone" width="399"] Trout with crabmeat.[/caption]

Backstory

Tommy Andrade became know to lovers of fine dining in the 1970s and 1980s, when he was the major domo of the Fairmont Hotel's Sazerac Restaurant--a very classy gig. He left that to open Irene's in the 1980s, and went solo with Tommy's in 1996. From the outset, Tommy's was filled with service pros of the old school, including some highly recognizable waiters from some of the city's best restaurants. A lot of former Brennan's and Galatoire's people are here now.

Dining Room

It feels like an old French Quarter cafe, with a lively buzz emanating from the largely local clientele. They keep the restaurant full most of the time. Tommy's bar, in an adjacent building, is one of the classiest watering holes around.

For Best Results

If you have four or more, get them to make an appetizer assortment for the table. Make a reservation and show up early. Make friends with the service staff. Plan to have an after-dinner drink in the lounge next door.