Tony Mandina's

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

The restaurant's slogan is "If you can find it!" Even with the help of a tall sign visible from the elevated West Bank Expressway, navigation to the place--through a neighborhood you are not likely to visit for any other reason--is a challenge. (It's probably best to get on the service road right after coming off the bridge.) A doorman directs you to what will probably be a non-intuitive parking space, and then ushers you into a beautiful restaurant. What the food lacks in polish it makes up for in nostalgic comfort, even if you have a preference for more modern styles of Italian cookery. It's good enough to have you thinking about what you're going to try next time.

Why It's Essential

Historically, the best restaurants on the West Bank have been invisible. This creates the illusion that there aren't any great eateries over the river. There aren't many, but they have to be sought out. Tony Mandina's is a particularly pleasant such discovery. Much liked by regulars but unknown among others, its food and surroundings are much nicer than one expects.

Backstory

Tony and Grace Mandina opened the restaurant in 1982. Although there's no connection with Mandina's on Canal Street, the famous name couldn't have hurt. The place was popular from the beginning, particularly among West Bank groups who needed a nice-looking place for lunch. As the Mandinas' children grew up and became involved, the restaurant has improved, with a much warmer style than in its early years.

Dining Room

No restaurant shows a stronger contrast between its environs and its dining room. The old suburban neighborhood looks unpromising for fine dining. But crossing the threshold is like passing through an atmosphere warp into a classy hotel bistro. The place even looks bigger than it did from the outside. At dinner, a highly listenable pianist noodles all night long. Service is performed well by bright young servers, some of home are family.

For Best Results

The red sauce is thick, sweet, and familiar, but the cream and herbal sauces are better. If you are fantastically hungry, the braciolone--a dish so time-consuming that few restaurants serve it--will serve you well. Most appetizers are big enough to share.