7 On Fulton
700 Fulton (Wyndham Riverfront Hotel)
Warehouse District & Center City
Backstory
The Wyndham Riverside Hotel's restaurant began life not long after the hurricane under the management of Vicky Bayley (who is now back at her old stand, Mike's on the Avenue). She and her first chef set a fine standard at 7 on Fulton, one maintained by Chef Matthew. (Who came here from Flaming Torch.)
Dining Room
The building is a reconstructed warehouse on the formerly industrial Fulton Street, which still has a few active warehouse within eyeshot. The long dining room extends from the hotel's rear entrance along a wall of windows. Spacious and spare in design, it has enough quirks to give it life--the salmon-colored chairs, notably. The space is divided by panels and urns full of sticks, adding to the intimacy and defeating some of the echoes. Service staff, which appears at first to be absent, suddenly appears and handles all their tastes well.
Why It's Essential
This well-hidden hotel restaurant is reliably good and often excellent. But you will likely be one of the only diners there. This can be useful, if you're looking for a place for a quiet, private dinner. The style is distinctly local, but with a forward-looking edge. The one lively part of 7 On Fulton is its bar, which stays open all day with an excellent bar menu. The restaurant runs frequent promotions and wine dinners that are usually very good. It's also a good place to remember for holidays when everyone else is packed.
Why It's Good
At dinner, Chef Matthew Fultz plays almost nothing straight out of the book. He shows enough restraint, though, that nothing on the table is unrecognizable. Even the combinations that sound iffy are terrific. No two dishes here are even remotely similar, which suggests to me that the chef has a deeper well of creativity than he is showing. When he runs specials they are often marvelous.
Most Interesting Dishes
<strong><em>Starters</em></strong><br /> Endive and watercress salad<br /> Seven salad (lobster, romaine, avocado, bacon)<br /> Seafood gumbo<br /> Crispy redfish salad<br /> Alligator ravioli, chevre, sauce piquant <br /> Barbecue shrimp and grits<br /> Crawfish pie, wild mushrooms, fennel, seared foie gras <br /> <strong><em>Entrees</em></strong><br /> Trio of duck (seared breast, dirty rice, duck pie)<br /> Pasta with shrimp, vegetables, tarragon cream sauce <br /> Rack of lamb, boudin, saffron potatoes, Pinot Noir reduction <br /> Seared scallops, braised short ribs, truffle potatoes, mushrooms, bacon jus <br /> Pan fried gulf fish, polenta, shallots, fennel, white wine cream sauce <br /> Filet mignon, whipped potatoes, braised vegetables, sauce natural <br /> <strong><em>Lunch</em></strong><br /> Cochon de lait<br /> Jambalaya<br /> Shrimp Creole<br /> Grilled ham & cheese sandwich with sunny side up egg and hunter sauce <br /> Grilled chicken sandwich, bacon, cheese<br /> Fried or blackened catfish poor boy with remoulade<br /> Sausage poor boy (andouille, smoked, and hot sausage)<br /> Hamburger<br />
Deficiencies
The chronic sparseness of the crowd here is disturbing to some customers, and something must be done. The breakfast and lunch menus don't seem as if they're coming from the same restaurant, and are very basic.
For Best Results
The restaurant has free valet parking on the Convention Center Blvd. side of the hotel.
Bonus Ratings
2
Attitude
1
Environment
2
Hipness
1
Local Color
1
Wine