Even as all the trends point to the death of grand dining, one or two new restaurants open in New Orleans every year purveying exactly that. Le Foret was the best of the Class of 2009. Although it keeps such a low profile that most people to whom I recommend it has never heard of it, and even has a hard time visualizing its location. Those who have been there have no problem remembering the place, though. Its beautiful dining room, spectacular presentations and service, and impressive and growing wine cellar gladden the soul of those of us who enjoy restaurants that can fill an entire evening with pleasure.
The building, despite its highly visible location, stood empty so long that most Orleanians can't picture it. Those of a certain age remember it as Ralph's Arden Bar, a hangout for well-heeled businessmen in the shipping and oil industries, when many such companies were headquartered nearby. Le Foret owner Margaret Schexnayder (in the oil business in Cajun country) renovated all three floors in high style.
The main dining room has a contemporary, rich style. Oversize windows look out into the intersection of Camp and Common. The curtains are wide open, allowing the streetlight to pour inside. I can't decide whether I like this or not. The ambient sound level is a touch on the loud side when the room is full. Upstairs, the rooms are quieter. On the top floor is a dining room for about fifty and an apartment; the possibilities of this are intriguing.
The five-course tasting menu at $60 gives a good taste of the restaurant at an outstanding price. Another good strategy is to build a meal of the very string appetizers. They make hot dessert soufflees, which you should order at the beginning of the meal.
| Attitude | 3 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 2 |
| Hipness | 2 |
| Local Color | 2 |
| Service | 2 |
| Value | 1 |
| Wine | 2 |
