Martinique
Backstory
Founder Hubert Sandot, a French chef from the Indian Ocean islands, first appeared on the scene with a funky little French place in the Warehouse District. It was only a modest success. He found an equally funky building in the narrow stretch of Magazine Street and moved there in 1994. His new menu of French Caribbean food expanded, and so did the customer base. He sold it in 2003 to an ambitious Houma restaurateur who renovated the old quarters and expanded the use of the courtyard. The menu evolved in the direction of a French bistro, but with local ingredients, especially in the seafood department.
Dining Room
The building is a former store in the old Jefferson City stretch of Magazine Street. The footprint of another, extinct store was turned into a hedge-lined courtyard, the handsomest uptown of Commander's Palace. Although the chairs out there are less than ideally comfortable, the appeal of the alfresco environment is hard to beat. Radiant heaters keep the courtyard comfortable even on nights when you might suppose it not to be usable. The two small, spare rooms indoors contain no two lines that meet at an exact right angle, which adds to its charm.
Why It's Essential
Martinique is one of the surprisingly few restaurants in New Orleans that serve respectable, interesting food in an outdoor setting. Although the space is distinctly Uptown, the menu is that of a French bistro. It also offers more special menus and events than its competitors, making it even more interesting. The series of Italian menus on Mondays was a particular hit.
Why It's Good
The kitchen has progressed since the last review five years ago. Chef Eric Labouchere, who hails from Australia and Belgium, gives the food a certain uniqueness. Although the quality of the ingredients and the service are a step down from those of the major gourmet places, the prices are attractive, and the total experience is credible. This is a lot like the French bistros you find on French islands. This has always been one of the two or three best restaurants for mussels. Duck is also a consistent specialty, appearing in several forms throughout the menu. The regular menu is short, but there are always many specials.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em><br /> »Classic French onion soup<br /> Potato-leek soup, chive oil <br /> »»Mussels du jour <br /> »Escargots Lyonnaise in profiteroles<br /> »Grilled duck sausage, celeriac remoulade<br /> Smoked salmon, accompaniments<br /> »Steak tartare<br /> Roasted beet salad with endive<br /> Frisee salad with lardons, poached egg, shallot vinaigrette <br /> Salade nicoise<br /> Crawfish gribiche, asparagus, artichokes, bibb lettuce <br /> <br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> »Shrimp Nantua, vanilla gnocchi, crawfish, Cognac <br /> Hard-seared salmon, truffled potato, haricots verts, sorrel cream <br /> »Fish of the day<br /> Coq au vin<br /> »Cassoulet, white beans, duck confit, duck sausage <br /> »Choucroute garni, pork loin & belly, boudin blanc <br /> »Filet mignon, black truffle compound butter, bordelaise <br /> »Sauteed sweetbreads, potato rosti, beurre blanc <br /> <br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> Profiteroles au chocolat<br /> »Creme brulee<br /> Cold chocolate soufflee
Deficiencies
There's a certain level of inconsistency in the cooking, which usually involves one mediocre dish in an otherwise excellent meal.
For Best Results
The current cool weather makes the many rib-sticking dishes very satisfying. Go on Wednesday night and bring a bottle of wine, corkage-free. Parking around there is tough, byut the restaurant just added a valet service.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
1
Environment
1
Hipness
2
Local Color
1
Service
1
Wine
Holiday Ratings
2
Christmas
0
Thanksgiving
2
New Year's Eve