Maurepas Foods
Anecdotes & Analysis
Bywater is so hip that almost any eatery opening there gets enhanced attention, even if it's just a pizza or sandwich joint. Maurepas is more ambitious in its cookery than most of its neighbors, and that has brought it more acclaim--notably in an article in the New York Times. ;<br /> ;<br /> "Purveyors Of Robust Cuisine," declares the front window. The main selling point at Maurepas is a familiar one these days. They're making the local farmer's markets to forage for locally-grown vegetables, meats, dairy, and seafood. What came in today is listed on the specials board. This doesn't keep exotics entirely off the menu, as the presence of mussels reveals.
Backstory
As 2012 opened, Chef Michael Doyle emerged from the Uptown gourmet bistro milieu (notably Gautreau's and Dante's Kitchen) to open Maurepas. He picked the right spot: Bywater, which is so hip that almost any eatery that opens there gets enhanced attention, even if it's just a pizza or sandwich joint.
Dining Room
The entrance is beveled into the corner of a former grocery store on the corner of Louisa and Burgundy--two blocks river side of the holy site of the extinct Restaurant Mandich. The ceilings are high, the spaces wide, the lines free of filigree or any interior signs of the building's age (well over a century). The chairs look like office furniture. The style is aggressively casual, t-shirts and shorts dominating the couture of both servers and customers.
Why It's Essential
Bywater is so hip that almost any eatery opening there gets enhanced attention, even if it's just a pizza or sandwich joint. Maurepas is more ambitious in its cookery than most of its neighbors, and that has brought it more acclaim--notably in an article in the New York Times.
Why It's Good
"Purveyors Of Robust Cuisine," declares the front window. The main selling point at Maurepas is a familiar one these days. They're making the local farmer's markets to forage for locally-grown vegetables, meats, dairy, and seafood. What came in today is listed on the specials board. This doesn't keep exotics entirely off the menu, as the presence of mussels reveals.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters</strong></em><br /> Soba noodles, fried tofu, soybeans, black vinegar, andouille broth<br /> Fettuccine, market vegetables, wild mushrooms<br /> Citrus salad, roasted beets, sheep cheese, greens<br /> Wedge of bibb lettuce, giardinera, salami<br /> Sweet potato croquettes, peanuts, shiitake mushrooms<br /> Cauliflower caponata, aged balsamic vinegar<br /> Crowder pea and bacon stew<br /> Root vegetable gratin<br /> Market greens with fresh ham hock<br /> Oysters on the half shell, mustard greens vinaigrette<br /> Housemade pickles<br /> Daily cheese assortment<br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> Chicken leg, greens, poached egg, grits<br /> Pork and bacon terrine, pickled pears<br /> Pimenton sausage sandwich, sauteed squid, romesco, mustard greens<br /> Terranova's gree onion sausage, arancini<br /> Goat tacos, pickled green tomatoes, harissa<br /> Fish and chips, lyonnaise potatoes<br /> Grilled shrimp, Israeli couscous, sorrel<br /> Mussels, brown ale and Stilton broth<br /> Grilled fish of the day, grits<br /> Duck sliders<br />
Deficiencies
I never feel that there's enough on the menu here. Those goat tacos are not as good as they sound, even though they're a signature dish.
For Best Results
Plan of having a cocktail before dinner. They're good, and you'll need the slacktime to get a table.
Bonus Ratings
1
Environment
1
Service