Jefferson

Warehouse District & Center City

New Orleans has always been one of the great cities in America for the eating of seafood. But it must be admitted that for a few decades we were in a bit of a rut, with seafood menus that were interchangeable both among the casual places and the gourmet restaurants. ¶ By going down to the basics of fishing and cookery, Pêche--along with a half-dozen or so other places with the same goals--have redrawn the field. It would be a wonderful thing if these new rules went into force in many more restaurants. ¶ Except for a a bit of beef for those who can't or won't eat seafood, Pêche is a where you go strictly to satisfy an appetite for fish. The provenance of the seafood is made clear by the number of items that vary day to day. ¶ The outstanding dish is the whole fish of the day. It's almost always a local species, and is likely to proceed from the large hearth right behind the much larger oyster bar. The kitchen doesn't limit itself to local or even American styles of cooking. Latin American and Spanish ideas are particularly in evidence.

Marrero To Lafitte

New Orleans is in close proximity to many Ends Of The World. Restaurant des Familles is not quite that remote, but well down the road to a place that is: Barataria, the hangout of Jean Lafitte and his pirates. The surroundings of the restaurant are primordial enough that there are swamp tours nearby. Yet it's close enough to town that if you have a visiting client or friend who wants to eyeball the unique Louisiana environment, it's not too long a trip to come here. And eat some gumbo, oysters, crabmeat, and all the other comestibles for which our town is celebrated.