Metairie 1: Old Metairie

French Quarter

The passing in 2015 of Chef Paul Prudhomme brought new attention to his seminal restaurant. A lot of people who hadn't dined there in awhile showed up to give their respects. They found, in contrast, the same jolly party that has always marked the scene at K-Paul's. The restaurant returns the favors. A few years ago they added a very casual lunch service, reminiscent of the way K-Paul's was in its early days. Chef Paul set up a unique Cajun-style deli, making outrageously good poor boy sandwiches and other casual eats, at everyday prices. The one I look forward to having again is the shepherd's pie, which launches that old school-cafeteria special into the flavor stratosphere. The Cajun deli lunches are back on Thursdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Uptown 3: Napoleon To Audubon

It's not true that New Orleans diners hate beautiful restaurants with atmosphere. But it's easy to come to that conclusion, given the number of ramshackle dining rooms that attract large, loyal clienteles. The premises are interesting in decor, but are spartan and less than comfortable. For most of its history, you couldn't get a reservation for fewer than five people, and waiting out back with a glass of wine was inevitable. And, somehow, chic. But time goes on. Under the new ownership, reservations are easy to get and the menu is a little more expensive. The place looks the same.