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Seafood

Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon

Basin Seafood is your basic utilitarian seafood house in every regard except one. Although it plies the flow of Louisiana fish and shellfish to build its menu, this is not the place if you're hungry for a fried seafood platter. The techniques of cooking and the flavors that result from them are from a different cookbook, although not one that is likely to puzzle any eater for long. Sauces, even the ones that sound as if they make a strong statement, step aside to let the fish take over.

Contemporary Creole.

Uptown 3: Napoleon To Audubon

It's not true that New Orleans diners hate beautiful restaurants with atmosphere. But it's easy to come to that conclusion, given the number of ramshackle dining rooms that attract large, loyal clienteles. The premises are interesting in decor, but are spartan and less than comfortable. For most of its history, you couldn't get a reservation for fewer than five people, and waiting out back with a glass of wine was inevitable. And, somehow, chic. But time goes on. Under the new ownership, reservations are easy to get and the menu is a little more expensive. The place looks the same.

Food Almanac — August 22

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Spumone. Pressure Cooker. Dorothy Parker. Muesli. Spuds. Cevapcici.

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