The Backyard Barbecue

The first time we went to The Backyard I was confused. It was indeed a backyard in Lakeview, but the backyard had a lot of kid stuff. It seemed more like someone’s actual backyard than a restaurant’s backyard, but I guess that’s because courting both kids and their parents in a place like Lakeview or Metairie is a brilliant business strategy. (Think Fat Boy's Pizza.)

I was also confused about the menu, which seemed to be some barbecue but other things. Maybe barbecue is just its own thing and it can’t share space with anything that isn’t, or maybe the labor intensity of barbecue edges all other things out, because places that were barbecue and something else have morphed into just barbecue. (Pyre comes to mind.)

It had been a long time since I visited The Backyard, but changes there made me curious. And have there been changes! The place was renovated into a much more upscale eatery. They are  bottling their own whiskey with a label that represents them well. It is bold and to the point and colorful.

These bottles are sold at a very handsome bar, which is quite large for a place this size. The tables line the walls and are mostly cozy booths. I like the feel of this place much more. I’m not sure where the kids fit into this model, but it seems to be a more adult hangout. The menu is still barbecue and other things, though all those things are strictly casual.

Appetizers like smoked tuna dip and muffuletta deviled eggs sit beside smoked chicken wings. Smoked brisket and pulled pork share menu space with a Sloppy Joe and grilled chicken breast. There is a smoked tuna BLT which seems like it woud be a popular seller. I don’t see that on menus anywhere.

I got a hot dog because it just seemed like it might be a good one, and I love hot dogs when I see them. A brisket sandwich sounded good too, and I had to have the Sloppy Joe, because how often do you see those?

I also ordered the Chimi-slaw, which is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a Chimichurri-based coleslaw. And I got potato salad because I was curious about that as well.These two sides were disappointing. The potato salad seemed more of a cold mashed potato, which I didn’t care for at all. 

And while Chimichurri may be my favorite sauce or condiment, it just didn’t fuse as well as I expected with coleslaw. Better to stick with the tots, which are a signature here. 

I was excited to have an opportunity for a Sloppy Joe, which I almost never see. Sloppy Joes were unappealing to me as a kid because my only experience with them was the one in the school cafeteria, never a high water mark. The Sloppy Joe at The Backyard was as much a chopped brisket sandwich as anything. The brisket was chopped finely but the tomato level, which seems a hallmark of the Sloppy Joe sandwich was light. I love all the little buns thay use at The Backyard, and the pickles that dress the sandwiches. Overall I loved this sandwich, though it was definitely not a traditional version of the famous 20th century staple.

There wasn’t much of  a difference in the brisket sandwich and the Sloppy Joe, so I was glad I also got the hot dog. I asked for it with relish and some cheese.  The waiter asked me about the cheese to clarify the order, and I wish I had picked up on his concerns. He gave me choices of cheeses and I selected Pepper Jack. He advised me that the Pepper Jack is placed on the sandwiches as slices rather than grated, and he was concerned that the cheese might melt and become invisible. But I thought it woud be all right. When the hot dog arrived I could see I goofed. (Always trust the waiter. They have your best interests at heart.) The cheese was a non-entity, and would add little to the sandwich, which was correct. He also explained that the relish was a little weird, which it was. It too seemed to disappear.

I was left with a very good hot dog itself, which was essential because it seemed to be just hot dog and bread in the end. The grind was fine and the skin was crisp and sturdy. It snapped when bitten. This would have been a great hot dog with the proper relish, mustard, and Cheddar cheese on top.

The brisket sandwich was on the same terrific bun, with more great housemade pickles, and a heaping pile of sliced brisket. The smoking was good, and it was really tender. I told them I wanted the fatty version, and it was that. Another good sandwich.

I will go back to The Backyard to sit and savor this good casual food with someone, sitting in the little booths and enjoying the vibe of this cozy neighborhood place.