Smoked Goodness

Tom has said that New Orleans wasn't a barbecue town. Even he admits that is no longer true. We have some exceptionally good barbecue places in town now. The best, to our taste, is Central City Barbecue. I would rather eat that than any place I have ever had barbecue, and I have had some barbecue. I am a fanatic. We have never had any particularly good places for barbecue where we live on the north shore. It has been much better the last seven or so years, and even better the last three.

When Pyre Provisions arrived on the scene they took over a place that had been several others. They did a great renovation of the space featuring wood because that was the theme. A pyre is a wood fire that was used to cremate people. Seems like a macabre name for a restaurant, but this was an unusual restaurant. Its owner had traveled the world in the USMC stationed at one time or another in some thirty countries. He became intrigued by the cultures of these countries and crafted a menu that drew elements from many places around the globe. It was a menu of global cuisines.

This was quite a stretch for the Northshore palate, and as time went on the menu was continually tweaked. It soon dawned on owner Jeff Mathia that his best-selling dishes were barbecue. He knew how to stoke a fire, and thankfully used it for roasting meats rather than its literal meaning.

The barbecue at Pyre is nowhere near the excellence of Central City or some places in New Orleans, but it is very good barbecue. All the essentials are here: the brisket and pork, chicken, and St. Louis ribs. They also smoke turkey breast and use it on sandwiches. 

The menu is small but adequate. All the starters are worth getting, again and again. The boudin balls are great, as are the whole smoked chicken wings. The egg rolls are also noteworthy. I’m over Brussels sprouts, which are now ubiquitous in restaurants, but these are just as good as the rest. 

All the plates come with very good homemade bread and butter pickles and pickled onions, as well as a little roll. The sides here are numerous, and some are unusual. In addition to the regular barbecue sides like beans and mac’n’cheese, here are smoky green beans, and mac'n'cheese with creamy white cheddar shells instead of orange elbows. Collard greens with ham hocks, and creamy grits are two other great sides. There are fries, but also housemade barbecue chips These are exceptionally good.

There is a special selection of hot dogs, which I believe he makes. One has his brisket chili on it, which is really good and really spicy. 

Another thing here that I don’t see in other places is the farm vegetables, which is something Jeff has done since he opened. It is a way of doing vegetables that elevates them way beyond anything you are likely to see in a barbecue restaurant. He does a Bourbon glaze on tri-colored carrot ribbons that makes them taste like candy. It is one of the best vegetable dishes I have ever had in any restaurant, including the A-listers. When we were last there, he had a broccoli and chili dish with cashews, and another one of cauliflower with pistou. 

The sandwiches here sound better than they are. I tried the crispy boudin grilled cheese, and I found the pepper jelly distracting.  I love the Texas Toast he uses for his sandwiches, and the boudin was good, but the condiments take over.

I also found this much more annoying with the Turkey BLT. I couldn't understand the name. There wasn't any bacon in it, and the tomato was part of a sweet jam that completely took over the flavor profile of the sandwich. Great buttered Texas Toast, but that's where it ended for me.

What is good, in fact, great, is the burger. Here is one of the best values out there. The little smashburger is only $8 or $9, and it comes with a pile of these fantastic housemade chips. That’s cheaper than a mediocre burger in a burger joint now. Nice bun, American cheese melted on a crusty patty. Very tasty.

Pyre is tucked away at the Mandeville trailhead in a cute space that has indoor/outdoor seating, and fun for the kids. 

I’m glad to see this place has settled into a comfortable groove. It’s nice to not have to cross the lake when I need a barbecue fix.