In 1990, The Dakota Restaurant opened on the Northshore, instantly elevating the dining scene across the lake from New Orleans. Owners Kenny Lacour and Chef Kim Kringle followed the original with two other places, Creola, and Dakota Wine & Feed. These two were at opposite ends of a very nice strip mall on Hwy 22, and both were more casual than Dakota, but equally delicious.
One catered to families and the other catered to sophisticated adults, who sometimes had their kids in tow. Both were outstanding examples of how great casual food can be. Our family was happy regulars at both places.
Dakota Wine & Feed was avant garde in so many ways, offering gourmet sandwiches and salads, and wine and charcuterie boards long before they became ubiquitous on menus. It was beloved by all, and so was Creola.
My daughter jokes about me not getting over certain places that have closed. That is true, and these two restaurants were maybe the first I felt that strongly about. I know these sentiments were shared by so many. And then both closed at the same time, as the owners, like so many others, were (and are) still seduced by the siren call to head to the Southshore. They opened Cuvée on Magazine St., which was also beloved over there. But the two coasts thing was too much ,and Cuvée closed well before its time. The Chophouse, another great steakhouse, took its place.
So I was thrilled to see on Instagram recently that for a limited time on Thursdays and Fridays, a particular popular sandwich from Dakota Wine & Feed would be offered at The Dakota. I had to go. It was the California Chicken Salad Sandwich, which usually isn’t my thing. But the draw was too strong to fight off this warm wave of nostalgia. I went in to have it, sprouts and all.
It was a lovely day outside, so I sat on the back patio. The picture on Instagram looked like housecut chips as a side with the sandwich, and indeed they were. But I forgot sweet potato chips are a house signature, served with lamb as nachos. These are absolute crispy perfection. But I am not a fried sweet potato chips or fries person. I asked them to sub out their fabulous housecut fries, which are made with white potatoes. That was an option, so I took it. It is hard to beat these fries, which are among the best in the entire metro area. They are served as a generous portion with an equally generous amount of tangy aioli.
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The sandwich was smaller than I pictured it, on a croissant “bun,” which was room temp. I always prefer that bread on a sandwich be toasted a bit. Between the two halves of this bun was a big lump of creamy chicken salad, topped with a healthy pinch of sprouts, something I haven’t eaten since the Eighties.
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The chicken salad was really creamy, with chicken that congealed into a whole rather than chunks. There were a lot of chunky pieces of walnuts and grapes, which is something I feel overcomplicates a chicken salad. But I loved this chicken salad sandwich.
Even better, I loved the nostalgia this sandwich brought to my heart. If ever there was a restaurant I’d like to return, Dakota Wine & Feed is it. Judging by the number of these sandwiches the waitress told me they sold, others wanted that nostalgia too.
I hope they continue this very special special for a long time.
