A very large American Legion convention will visit New Orleans this summer, and I was asked to compile a list of restaurant recommendations for their 5-day stay. In many of the places from which they hail, such a task would not be daunting. But here, it is. I will limit this list to 25, and I asked the radio audience (The Food Show airs weekdays 2-4pm 0n WGSO 990AM) for help, not because I can’t come up with it, but because it is hard to limit it.
Since the beginning of The New Orleans Menu in 1972, much has changed in the dining world, and in the media world. Social media has given voice to “critics” who gravitate to the endless variety of places that are new and trendy. As we always do, and always have, we stick with traditional restaurants that offer excellence over a long period of time. New Orleans has an unusually large collection of restaurants that have been around a hundred or more years. People looking for new hip and trendy places have many other lists to consult.
Antoine’s
Arguably the oldest restaurant in America. Tom has always given the nod to Antoine’s even though the Union Oyster House in Boston is in the realm, as is Delmonico’s in New York. But Antoine’s is the oldest restaurant continually operating in the same family. More fun and less steeped in tradition over the last few years, it is still unmistakable Antoine’s.
Tujague’s
Only 16 years younger than Antoine’s, this Grande Dame is no longer in its original location, and the food is a more modern interpretation of the classics, but it is still a very good restaurant. It now skews to a younger clientele. (NOTE: Tujague’s is currently running a brunch special with a nod to their birth year $18.56 two-course meal with three choices per course.)
No other restaurant in this town comes close to those two in age, but some others are not far behind.
Galatoire’s
This hometown favorite turned 100 in 2005, though that milestone was eclipsed by another historic event that year. (Hurricane Katrina.) Galatoire’s serves not only fantastic food but also the spirit of New Orleans.
Arnaud’s
Stately glamour is the scene at Arnaud’s, with food that is superb to match. The restaurant celebrated its centennial in 2018. It’s a classic.
Broussard’s
This one turned 100 in 2020, though its big year-long birthday party was postponed because nothing was open. Now owned by a large restaurant group in town, it is lovelier than ever with food that remains excellent.
Commander’s Palace
Not really a member of the Grande Dame club, this culinary star has been around since 1893, but the Brennan family took it over in 1974. The next generation cousins are taking it in a very modern direction, in spirit as well as food. It remains in a class all by itself for many reasons, not the least of which is your greeting upon arrival. The place is, by all accounts, special. We agree.
Dropping down a bit to a more casual style, there are two other restaurants that have celebrated a centennial. Both of these restaurants have renowned oyster bars, with long-time shuckers always shucking.
Casamento’s
A raffish joint serving mainly oysters, in a very casual setting that has not been updated since opening in 1905. This scene is part of its charm, but the food is also very good. The atmosphere is neighborhood comfort. Unfortunately, conventioneers will not be able to experience this one, because it is closed through August in keeping with the old oyster rules, serving only in the months with an "r."
Pascal’s Manale
Dickie Brennan of the Brennan family recently acquired this one, immediately elevating its fortunes. Founded in 1913, Pascal’s Manale introduced the much-copied BBQ Shrimp dish, though its imitators have improved on the original. This is a New Orleans Sicilian-Italian house which exemplifies what it means to be in New Orleans.
There are so many other great restaurants here that aren’t nearly as old, but are wonderful in their own right. This group is part of what Tom called the Contemporary Creole Revolution, a period that began in the 1980s, when young chefs began to reinterpret classic New Orleans food in exciting ways.
The Pelican Club
Tom’s favorite of these is the Pelican Club. Chef/owner Richard Hughes’s interpretation of New Orleans food is inspired by his time in New York before returning here to open his own place in 1990.
Mr. B’s
This one is a don’t-miss. A classy brasserie that is wildly popular with its expertly prepared New Orleans classics, superb service, and fun vibe. Another Brennan restaurant, Mr. B's is owned by Ralph’s sister Cindy.
Brigtsen’s
This quiet charmer is owned by husband and wife team Frank and Marna Brigtsen and located in a cottage near the river. It is a favorite of all the gourmets in town, including Tom.
Clancy’s
Here is a much-beloved hangout in deepest Uptown. Set in a quiet neighborhood, Clancy’s is anything but quiet. Dining at Clancy’s is fun as well as delicious. Multi-generational tables that sit for hours ordering course after course with wine as accompaniment make the experience festive, even vicariously. For the waiter: Always Patrick.
Gautreau’s
Another one of those Uptown neighborhood places, but this one is so discreet you must rely on your GPS, and you will wonder upon arrival if it’s playing with you. Gautreau’s is an old pharmacy gone ultra-gourmet restaurant. This one is clubby and full of oenophiles who really do know wine. Sometimes they’ll offer you a taste.
Emeril’s
The flagship of the empire arrived in 1990, a bit later than the others. It has closed and opened and was recently remade into a place you’d see in a much larger metro area, offering a very gourmet prix fixe tasting menu. There is a smaller room for a la carte service of similar items, all very expensive.
Some 21st century stars:
GWFins
Another standout, that has been a local favorite since Day One. Its repertoire of fish includes far more than the usual species seen here. All are expertly prepared. We'd go for the biscuits alone, but there is so much more.
Restaurant R’evolution
The New Orleans home of culinary legend John Folse. The menu here is primarily Cajun, and crafted by the master himself. The very polished food here incorporates all of Southwestern Louisiana. Very expensive, very interesting.
Restaurant August
The flagship of the John Besh Restaurant Group. A little younger than these others, this one offers stellar gourmet cuisine and style, still managing to make a diner feel totally at home.
The Brennan family is synonymous with restaurant excellence in New Orleans, and they deserve their own category.
Brennan’s
The flagship of the empire begun by Owen Brennan. It dates back to the 1950s, and set the standard for the Brennan brand of excellent service and great New Orleans food. It changed branches of the Brennan family in 2013, and became a much fancier restaurant then.
Other Brennan restaurants that belong to this group are from the Dickie Brennan branch of the family.
Tableau
Located strategically in a corner of Jackson Square, this is a gorgeous place with an interior courtyard and a wraparound second-floor balcony. Each room is stunningly appointed, the food is fabulous, and the balcony offers the best seat in town, looking down on the streets of the French Quarter. Reservations are a must for the balcony.
Palace Cafe
Another great restaurant owned by The Dickie Brennan Group. In a former music store on Canal St it is handsome with great food. Don't miss the signature Crabmeat Cheesecak, one of the best bites in town.
The Audubon Clubhouse is another Dickie Brennan restaurant on the Magazine St. side of Audubon Park. A delightful place with casual food.
Ralph’s on The Park
This Brennan restaurant is owned by Ralph Brennan, and it borders City Park. It’s stylish and delicious, with a more casual bar that needs no reservations. Nice Happy Hour.
The Napoleon House.
Also in the Ralph Brennan group, here is a walk-in casual place with all the usual dishes that represent this city. The menu includes all well-done but casual versions of these classics, all set in the most interesting place. Drop in for a drink if you can’t spare a meal here.
For dessert:
Angelo Brocato’s
Don’t miss this unique place, easy to reach on the Canal Streetcar line. Started by a Sicilian immigrant in 1905, it’s a European-style emporium that feels like a vacation to the “old country.” Delicious Sicilian treats with real Italian gelato and the best cannoli anywhere. Try the Baba Rum cake.
Cafe Du Monde
There are better beignets at Cafe Beignet, but this one is right in the French Market. And at City Park in the Casino building, should you find yourself there.
The above 25 places are standouts in a city that stands out for its food. But they are not the only standouts.
For casual:
Katie’s in Mid-City. Accessible on the Canal Streetcar line. Owner Scot Craig can cook. Period. Less expensive than others but just as terrific. This may sound blasphemous, but here is the best muffuletta in town.
Chemin a la Mer
This newcomer from the Donald Link Group at the Four Seasons hotel shot to the top of our favorites list. It is handsome and delicious, with a stunning view of the mighty Mississippi from the 5th floor balcony and floor-to-ceiling windows. Expensive.
Parkway Poor Boys
A two-block walk from the Canal Streetcar, this is the place for poor boys. Just trust us.
Johnny’s
Another great poor boy place in the French Quarter. Cash only.
Camellia Grill
An institution on the St. Charles Streetcar line, this classic diner still has it. Always busy because it is good.
The Blue Crab
You’ll have to drive to The Blue Crab but it is worth it. This place harkens back to The West End, a treasured spot for locals that was washed away with Hurricane Katrina. Set high up in a harbor at the lakefront of Lake Pontchartrain, here is local fried seafood at its best. Great chargrilled oysters with a commitment to excellence so strong they are doing housecut fries.
Drago’s
Speaking of chargrilled oysters, the phenomenon started here. The flagship is in Metairie with an outpost at the Hilton at the river.
And a few others:
For ghosts...Muriel’s. They also have great food, incredible service, and a beautiful place on Jackson Square.
For Italian...Irene’s in the French Quarter.
For steaks…Crescent City Steakhouse. Nothing has changed in 90 years. And that is a good thing. Best beef in town at the best prices.
For a charming little stop off the St. Charles Streetcar line...Le Petite Bleu, a Parisien itty bitty charmer next door to Commander’s Palace, run by the Brennan cousins who own Commander’s.
For a drink in a cool place...Carousel Bar at the Monteleone.
For a trip in a car outside town, The Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain has great restaurants. On the Mandeville LakefrontWelco is Pat’s Rest A While, doing a gourmet version of fried seafood. And Tchefunte’s on the Tchefuncte River, doing a gourmet version of everything.
And finally, drop in at Mother’s in New Orleans. It’s a Tun restaurant.
