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Coscino's
Mandeville: 1817 N Causeway Blvd. 985-727-4984. Map.
Very Casual.
AE DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Hidden but convenient (it's at the junction of Causeway Boulevard and LA 22), Coscino's purveys a simpler menu in a more spartan space than do the chains (both the local and national ones), but if you're going for the food this is a better choice.
WHAT'S GOOD
The pizzas are based on a crisp-bottomed, thin crust, baked in the old-style hearth ovens that lend so much more interest than the more common conveyor-belt ovens that dominate the piazza-and-pasta places in strip malls. The pasta dishes also look and taste more like homestyle than corporate.
BACKSTORY
Jerry Coscino and his family opened this place in 2004, filling the gap left when the great Roma Pizza and its New York-style pies went away a year or so before. In fact, he had the Roma guys come in to consult at the beginning.
DINING ROOM
It's a small space in the same strip mall as the Mandeville location of Bear's Po-Boys. That's a good thing: one can head in that direction and make the pizza-or-poor boy decision when one arrives. The premises are comfortable enough, but I suspect a majority of the pies head home instead of being eaten there.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starters
Chicken wings
»Breadsticks
Mozzarella cheese sticks
»Cheesy bread
Eggplant sticks
»Jeremy's special garlic bread
»Italian tossed salad
Caesar salad
Ranch salad
Sandwiches
»Meatball
Eggplant parmesan
Ham and cheese
»Muffuletta
Chicken or veal parmesan
Entrees
»Pizza
»Calzone
Spaghetti with red sauce
»Spaghetti and meatballs
»Lasagna
Eggplant parmesan
Chicken parmesan
Veal parmesan
Desserts
Plain cheesecake
»Cinnamon breadsticks
»Cannoli
»Chocolate cannoli
Tiramisu
FOR BEST RESULTS
The pizza and calzones are the bedrock of Coscino's. The pastas, parmigianas, and sandwiches are good but done better by other nearby Italian restaurants. The restaurant's website has a coupon for $5 off a $30 order.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The American penchant for covering pizzas with too much cheese, sauce, and other ingredients is slowly progressing here. This must be stopped.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment
- Consistency +2
- Service
- Value +2
- Attitude +1
- Wine & Bar
- Hipness
- Local Color
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Sidewalk tables
- Open Monday dinner
- Open all afternoon
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- No reservations
