Not very far into my career reviewing restaurants, so we are talking a long time ago, I sat in the dining room at Deanie’s in Bucktown. When it was the only one. As is too often the case, I was unwittingly privy to a conversation at an adjoining table. I have often quoted it. In perfect Yat, one diner said, “Dis is da woist seafood I ever ate.” His companion concurred, “Yeah, but dey sure do give ya a lot of it!”
My wife has always laughed at that story, even as she didn’t really believe it. With a recent visit to Deanie’s on Magazine, she does now. We were immediately struck by the size of the average customer here. Clearly they appreciate the generosity of the house.
A unique twist of Deanie’s is boiled potatoes and butter instead of bread when you sit down. Service was slow, so I had a nice snack of this. MA was immediately drawn to a crab meat au gratin, and was a little suspicious how cheap it was. When it came to the table, she noticed a grayish tint to the large crab meat chunks, which were hidden under a blanket of tangy cheddar. Dampening her enthusiasm, the color made her inquire as to the origin of the crab. She was assured it was local, but still didn’t finish it.
I ordered what was billed as chargrilled oysters, but since there were no eight-foot-high flames anywhere around, our conclusion that these were broiled instead intensified. My basket of fried catfish was crispy, greaseless, and hot. I can’t complain about it. And the size for the price was impressive. MA ordered stuffed crab, which is now rare on menus, and a longtime favorite that she admits must just be fond memories of the old Fitzgerald's. To say that she was underwhelmed with this is an understatement. Each half of the crab looked like a baseball, and seemed as hard. One bite of this deterred her from any subsequent taste. This would not get better the more she ate, she decided. Leaving it nearly untouched was difficult for her, because Mary Ann is compelled to eat any creature that was once alive.
What was intriguing about this platter was the fries, which were so unusual they looked fresh cut. But it couldn’t be. Not here. She asked the server, who revealed an interesting fact about Deanie’s. The food is not the same at each location. He was unfamiliar with these fries, since he usually worked at the French Quarter location. Mary Ann asked a manager, who told her that they are indeed frozen, but a very expensive version of it. That was clear to see. What was less clear is why they would go through the expense with fries when most everything else was subpar.
Deanie’s does not, and never has, needed my approval. They are packed all the time, at all three locations. What still puzzles me is why. For an explanation, I keep coming back to that same conversation I overheard so long ago.
Deanie’s Seafood Kitchen
Sun-Th 11am-9pm
Friday & Saturday till 10pm
2200 Magazine St New Orleans 70130
504-962-7760
deanies.com
