Death By Gumbo @ R'Evolution
Death by Gumbo is a dark-roux, Cajun-style gumbo served with a whole stuffed quail in the middle of the bowl. It's the most talked-about dish at R'Evolution, the partnership of Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto. The name came from a food writer (I want to say it was Craig Claiborne, but I'm not sure.) In the early days of R'Evolution--a beautiful restaurant in the Royal Sonesta Hotel, It was somewhat less good than the version of the same formula from Chris Kerageorgiou at at La Provence. (Which, seems to me, originated the idea, back in 1978.) But my last four or five exposures to Death By Gumbo--one of them at Antoine's,when Folse showed up for a two-chef dinner--were excellent enough to make the top %00.
