When Desi Vega’s Smokehouse Tavern arrived in Mandeville I was delighted. Then I became obsessed. A very regular customer. Here were some of my favorite things combined under one roof. I am crazy about barbecue, and I love stylish things. Barbecue tends to be served in raffish surroundings, but here was a glamorous place to have casual food, using great ingredients as Desi Vega is wont to do.
The place was Part Two of a licensing arrangement. I am not a fan of Part One: Desi Vega’s Northshore, which has a Vegasy vibe to it. Same fantastic Desi Vega's food, but we rarely went.
It seems that I am in a minority of people who wanted fancy barbecue in a fancy place, (their “special sauce” is even called Fancy Sauce) because the Smokehouse didn’t last long. After less than two years renovations began to change it into just a Desi Vega's Steakhouse.
Desi Vega’s has a terrific Happy Hour in Metairie, and when this new place opened it offered a similar deal. As is true of most Happy Hours, these prices are only offered in the bar, which is rather small in proportion to the rest of the place. There are only three high top tables and a large wraparound bar. There has always been a bit of a scene here, even in the Smokehouse Days.
But I’ve just never felt comfortable on a barstool sitting between two strangers. I really wanted to get to the Happy Hour here for some time, but it was inappropriate for Tom. (The one in Metairie we did a few times, but the scene was different.) On a quiet day last week I finally made it there, and decided to sit on a barstool at the end of the bar.
The menu is one of the best out there. Happy Hours have changed a bit recently, with fewer items on a menu, sometimes offering food at regular prices and featuring just specials on drinks. Or maybe there is just a burger at the regular price or a slightly reduced price. But Desi Vega’s retains the model of full portions or nearly full portions for half price. Always a great deal that allows for trying a lot of things. This may be my favorite way to eat. Small little courses for small prices. I still spend $50 plus on a Happy Hour meal, but there is a lot to talk about.
I started with the housecut potato chips. These were served oddly with just melted butter. They were kettle chips and very good. Some were a little thicker and less done, but overall these were great. Nicely seasoned too.
There was a plate of fried shrimp with Bloody Mary cocktail sauce, which I also got. Fried shrimp? Yes, please! A dozen shrimp were completely peeled, well-seasoned, crispy, and golden brown. Like popcorn. I even enjoyed the cocktail sauce, which I almost never eat.
This had Bloody Mary Mix in it, definitely enhancing it.
Crab claws are a favorite wherever I go, so seeing them on a Happy Hour menu made me gleeful. Gotta say that this was the only thing I didn’t really care for, and perhaps the only time ever I can say that about crab claws. They were cold, but I didn’t like the sauce at all. It had mustard notes, which completely overwhelmed the crab.
There was a slider duo that offered burger sliders or Mrs. Barbara’s meatballs, or one of each. I got the one-of-each duo. And now standby for my regular rhapsodizing over Mrs. Barbara’s meatballs, which are the best in town, in my opinion. I have too often said that this little meatball is my favorite Amuse-bouche around town. But all of the things I love about Mrs. Barbara’s meatballs were missing from this slider. The fantastic sauce had been replaced by a slice of cheese that was moderately melted. The bun was dry otherwise. Such a bastardization of Mrs. Barbara’s delicacy!
The steak slider was so much better than its partner on the plate. I was expecting chunks of beef, but this was thinly-sliced prime beef steak piled onto the little bun with some horseradish mayo, arugula, and caramelized onions. This was superb. The tender meat was plentiful and the mayo and onion contrasted in texture and flavor in such a way as to be really pleasing. The arugula was a tiny touch of bitter leaf.
I had already eaten half of this menu, so I decided to make it complete by getting one of the last apps. It was Steak Eggrolls, which came as a trio of half thin eggrolls sliced lengthwise and drizzled with a chipotle remoulade. Chow Chow pickles were part of this tasty group.
I didn’t get the onion rings with the house signature Fancy Sauce. Or the Steak Nachos.
I’ll be back for those.
