When I was single and in my twenties, I developed an association with Chicago, the business there, and the people. The city was very different from my native New Orleans, but somehow I felt that if I could do something in New Orleans, I could do it in Chicago too.
Although I flew from one city to another, my preferred travel medium is the City of New Orleans, a passenger train that leaves at mid-morning from New Orleans. It rolls all night, arriving in Chicago the first thing the next morning. Then it returns to New Orleans the day after, as depicted in the Arlo Guthrie pop record. Although it takes much more time to travel in this antique style than to fly from Chicago, the trip is a rare pleasure. As the scenery flashes by, I read, write, think, and stare out the window. If I tire of those activities, I fold down the bed in my sleeping car room and take a nap.
When I arrive in Chicago and check-in at the hotel, the first thing I do is walk the ten or so blocks in Chicago’s Loop, not far from its commercial area. Here I find the first manifestation of food in Chicago. I am a full-time restaurant critic since 1972. When I go to Chicago, I know in advance that I will be looking for and finding a full population of great ingredients, chefs, and dining rooms, and all other things I look for in foodservice.
Just out of the train station area, I find the Berghoff, a restaurant specializing in German food and its own beer. Although there’s a touristy quality in the food and the place, it’s so distinctive a place that missing a stop at Berghoff leaves something out of a visit to Chi-Town.
While Chicago's culinary merits aren’t as distinctive as those of New Orleans, there’s a lot of deliciousness in the vicinity of the Berghoff (and Union Terminal), where the train arrived. In this neighborhood are several vendors of Chicago Italian beef sandwiches, one of them at Heaven on Seven, the home of Jimmy Bannos. Once over lunch he explained why this local favorite sandwich is special, and how it differs from our New Orleans roast beef poor boy. He should know, his restaurant serves New Orleans food, and so well it has become its own institution for 30 years now. The flavors are similar but different, because of different ingredients.
The Chicago dining world is as wide a spread as that of any other major city. I’ve thought for years that It’s much underrated, even in the shadow of New York and New Orleans. A lot of it is highly original, using ingredients not immediately available. But someone dropping into town and looking for a great dinner will want to eat steak, an item hard to top in Chicago, or anywhere else. I start with a Gibson cocktail, (a classic made with Martini ingredients and a marinated onion) in the Gibson Steak House, and I’m well on my way. When I brought ML there a few years back, her recollection of this great place is dessert, with portions sizes so large they could feed not two but a whole party.
Just thinking of Chicago makes me recall so many experiences here, starting with the time I rode my bicycle and ending with my last two trips there, which were part of an Eat Club. I remember one tale still repeated to this day about a woman who was a regular with us, and a heavy drinker. At Everest, an exclusive fine dining establishment with a great view, she asked for a Canadian Club. When the waitress informed her they were out, she said, “Never mind then, I have some right here,” reaching in her handbag for a flask. “Is that okay?” The waitress was too dumbfounded to do anything but nod.
On this same trip, Clark the Gourmet truck driver and I went to Walker Brothers Pancake House for breakfast, a place I was turned on to by an almost-father-in-law. Also a local institution, I never miss it when I am there. And we all miss Clark whenever he comes to mind. He is never far from our thoughts.
My love affair with Chicago started long before the internet. People traveling for the game can find the latest most talk-about places on their phones, but these are my special places to eat in Chicago.
The Berghoff Restaurant
17 W Adams St Chicago
312-427-3170
Closed Sunday
theberghoff.com
Heaven on Seven
111 N. Wabash Ave Chicago
312-263-6443
Closed Sunday
heavenonseven.com
Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse
1028 Rush St Chicago
312-266-8999
Mon-Sun 11am-2am
gibsonsteakhouse.com
Everest
425 S Financial Pl Chicago
312-663-8920
Closed Sunday
everestrestaurant.com
Walker Bros. The Original Pancake House
walkerbros.net
