On the 1st of September, two old friends came together in a venue that has supplied both with nearly four decades of many happy memories. The same can be said for all of those in attendance at the event.
The occasion was the 50th anniversary of the first words Tom wrote about food, a review of the Flambeau Room at UNO. There was never a question about where the event should be held. It had to be Andrea’s. Our association with Andrea goes way back.
Tom was always extremely high on Andrea’s. It was the setting for our first “official” date. I remember where we sat, what Tom ate, and the lively conversation that ensued when Chef came over to chat. Andrea will be remembered as much for his hospitality as anything else.
“Mi Casa es Tu Casa,” he said to everyone. “My home is your home!” This became a joke and almost a parody to all who heard it. It was his trademark, but he really did mean it. So much so, that a chef I know who worked for him in the early days of a long career told me that the very best advice he ever got from anyone was that simple phrase from Andrea. He said that Andrea knew hospitality better than anyone, and that “Mi Casa es Tu Casa” came straight from the heart. He remembers it 30 years later, and it has guided his career.
When Andrea bought the building from Etienne in 1985, Metairie went from having a fine French restaurant to a fine Italian restaurant, still the only fine dining establishment in the burbs. The business was started with help from his partners and cousins from Capri, Constantine and Roberto De Angelis, whose father was a hotelier in Capri. Roberto lent Italian-style panache to the front of the house, while Chef Andrea turned out food that was delicious Northern Italian fare from the kitchen.
The partnership lasted only a few years, and Constantine left town immediately for Los Angeles, where he has made his fortune in the fashion business. Roberto opened the delightful but short-lived Spunto in the French Quarter (where Emeril's NOLA remains in limbo.) After closing, Roberto moved to Scottsdale where he became COO for global brand development at P.F. Chang’s.
All three have achieved their “American Dream”, perhaps not of fame, but certainly fortune. Andrea is locally famous, assisted by his 35-year association with the Food Show. There he had the longest commercial on the radio, chatting with Tom twice weekly. These conversations were punctuated with the tagline “Mamma Mia” which also became a universal chuckle with Andrea and his many customers, who all knew him from the Food Show.
“Mamma Mia” was used by Andrea to praise whatever culinary creation he mentioned. All were “guest’s favorites,”
which is saying something considering the size of the menu at Andrea’s.
The food at Andrea’s became wildly inconsistent as time wore on. The Veal Chop Valdostano that Tom absolutely savored the first night we went together in 1988 was a high water mark in what I call the halcyon days of the restaurant. Those days have been gone a long time, although when Andrea was on he could still turn out some memorable food.
Our family has had countless meals there. We have celebrated many an occasion at Andrea’s. It will always have a special place in our hearts, and in the hearts of so many people in New Orleans.
When I approached Andrea to have Tom’s 50th Anniversary Eat Club there, he neglected to mention that he had sold the restaurant. It had long been rumored that it was for sale for the right price, and that price finally came.
We were happy for him yet concerned about the dinner, but we kept it at Andrea’s because it just wouldn’t be right to have it any other place. Tom and Andrea became close when they worked together on Andrea’s book La Cucina Di Andrea’s. Their link on the radio show cemented that. Andrea catered our wedding, where I requested little meatballs and mini-muffulettas, which they both found amusing. Andrea was there watching the kids grow up. It was fitting that this event should bring them together for the last time in the twilight of each man’s career.
We were humbled by the attendance the night of the event, which was 50 years to the day that Tom’s first words came out in print. We had to keep down the promotion because of the current staffing issues at Andrea’s, the same ones everywhere.
Both our kids worked together to set up the event, Mary Leigh brought a large Nomenu logo she did as a backdrop for pictures. She also did floral 14 centerpieces for the tables. We priced out the job and it was nearly $1,000, so we went to Trader Joe’s and bought $256 worth of unusual flowers and greenery, with copious amounts of baby’s breath. We had buckets of flowers everywhere, and somehow magically, she turned them into exquisite arrangements for each table.
Our dear friend Dominic Massa hired a photographer and videographer, and I asked several speakers to take us through the last fifty years.
We had 150 people, and as someone put it, you could feel the love in the room. I introduced each guest after Andrea welcomed everyone. Dominic Massa brought a blow-up of the actual first column, which he spoke about, as well as Steppin’ Out, where he interned, thus beginning a lifelong fascination with quirky Tom.
The evening was absolutely glorious, with only a few hiccups, mostly involving a group that did not book and a group who came in wanting to be a group. We lost several people who had reservations, and chairs that would have been filled weren't.
Luminaries in the restaurant world came to visit or stay for dinner. Gunther and Evelyn Preuss, the gang from Parkway Bakery, Jean Luc Albin from Maurice’s French Pastries, the gang from Trenasse, Anthony Vojkovich from Crescent City Steakhouse came with his wife. Chef Duke and Scot Craig were speakers, along with media people Dominic Massa and Peggy Scott Laborde.
We shaved an entree off the offerings to make it easier for the kitchen. The evening started with pass-around apps like Black Gaeta Olive Pesto Tapenade Bruschetta, a puff pastry cheese straw, and Fried Eggplant with Marinara Sauce. These were served with cocktails and champagne. Before the speakers began Chef Andrea came out to talk about the menu, peppering everything with his usual “Mamma Mia!”
Orders were taken and a great evening was underway. The first course was Mushroom Ravioli with a choice of an Italian white or red wine. The ravioli was al dente, perhaps too much so, and I found it rather pasty. But the filling was nice and had an intense mushroom flavor.
The next course was Caesar salad, which we have always liked rather well at Andrea’s. This was no exception, and it made for a great refreshing second course. Again, there were two choices of wine, Italian red or white, as it went for each course. The red was a rich Cabernet, and it was very nice. I did not have any white wine.
All three of the entree choices were represented at our table. Chicken Valdostana Involtini came already sliced and easy to eat. It had a light batter and was fried nicely. Each slice revealed the layers of prosciutto, spinach, and cheese.
Tom and I had the fish, which was Drum in Crazy Water. I have always liked this preparation of fish that Andrea does, which is exquisitely simple, consisting of olive oil, garlic, and herbs with white wine. The fish was mildly dry, but perfectly fine considering the sheer number of these he had to put out.
The last thing on the table was Roast Prime Rib of Beef. I was surprised at the number of people who got that, and most of them reported it was nice enough. None of this was brilliant, and we didn’t expect it to be. It was sort of a banquet, after all, and it’s tough to get that up to the standards of a la carte. When a kitchen is short staffed the challenge is even greater, but it was never about the food anyway.
Dessert was maybe the best course. It was strawberry shortcake, and it was fluffy with soft berries and a generous layer of whipped cream. The portion size was perfect, and it was a hit.
The evening was so lovely, it was observed that you could “feel the love all around.” That was so true. It was just like all the Eat Clubs of so many years, filled with so many people, but extra special. They all came to say “Thank You” to Tom, and he loved every minute of it.
