In the early days of my relationship with Tom, he often used the phrase “Contemporary Creole Revolution” to describe a reimagining of New Orleans food. By the time I arrived in his life, the movement was almost a decade old, but a few key players Uptown remained as temples to this new type of eating. Most still thrive today. Flagons left us early on due to internal conflicts, and The Upperline was a COVID casualty, but Clancy’s and Gautreau’s still shine as beacons of that era.
Clancy’s is still owned by Brad Hollingsworth, a most affable transplant from Minnesota, but Gautreau’s has just changed hands, with longtime owner Patrick Singley passing the torch to Chef Rob Mistry.
We had Rob on The Food Show recently, and I became curious about how the change would affect what has for a long time been a culinary institution for serious gourmets.
I had only been to Gautreau’s less than a handful of times because it was out of my league. The place was filled with neighbors and people who really “dined,” going through glassware and more glassware filled with the hottest wines, and passing them around to each other’s tables. A lot of people in the wine business could always be seen in the crowd.
This scene, along with the presence of menu items like squab, kept someone like me from going there unless we were meeting other serious gourmets. I am married to Tom Fitzmorris, after all.
Gautreau’s was almost like a secret club for real gourmets, tucked deep into a neighborhood Uptown on Soniat Street. It was even hard to find, unassuming in the block, shaded by foliage. The only thing to give it away was the fact that it looked like the old pharmacy that it was, rather than a house. The entrance is right on the sidewalk instead of being set back like a house.
Inside, the footprint of the pharmacy remains, with a bar in the back that was once the soda fountain and counter. The walls are unique, painted by an artist to resemble curtains, complete with folds. All of the tables are set for “diners,” just like the Eat Club dinners were. Glassware takes up every inch of the table for the specific wines to be consumed.
When we spoke to Chef Rob Mistry on The Food Show, I mentioned how intimidating this scene is to non-gourmets. He said it was a specific focus of his to make this next era at Gautreau’s more approachable for the non-gourmets out there.
I was curious about how that would happen, because Gautreau’s has always focused on serious diners, and there are fewer of those. The chat with Chef Rob made me curious about other things he said, like a shift to include hip Indian flavors into this food. (He has Indian ancestry.) At the end of our conversation, he mentioned that they would be open for Fridays at lunch sometime. This was a great opportunity to try out the new “more approachable” menu without a heavy investment.
So mid-month we went to Gautreau’s for lunch. (A one-time holiday thing.) The place looked the same, none the worse for wear. The beautiful mural with billowing curtains reminded me where we were. We were the first table there, and the room was filled with tables for large parties, complete with tables set to the max with goblets, flutes, and regular wine glasses.
Not long after we started munching on the delectable toasted French bread, the place filled up with the neighbors and gourmets and wine industry people and their friends, exactly as it has always been.
The menu was still gourmet but a tad more approachable, as promised. I was very curious about an item Chef Rob mentioned on The Food Show. He called it Muffuletta in Brodo. The title captivates with its irony.
When he described it the details made me curious. It sounded a little disgusting. He makes a mousse from mortadella. Mortadella should not be a mousse, I reasoned. And it certainly didn’t belong in Brodo. Huh? I had to see what this was about. I thought I heard him say spaetzle, which made me even more curious. He also mentioned Duck Confit as an entree. Sold. And fish not normally seen around town. Tom would love that. I was looking forward to the adventure, and these familiar dishes provided security.
The waiter was that very polished and experienced professional found in New Orleans restaurants of this caliber. He mentioned a special cream soup of cauliflower with cheddar. I was interested in that but we didn’t have time to insert it into the lineup. They didn’t open until 11:30, making a tight frame tighter. Another course was out of the question.
Tom’s sister is a neighbor and I mentioned that we were there and that she should drop in. Her arrival seemed to unsettle the managers at the host stand. I asked if it was okay if she just got the soup. That was approved.
The Muffuletta in Brodo and the Duck Confit were a given, but we searched for something for Tom. There was a crabmeat salad with citrus that seemed a little too “approachable” (boring) but the other choices for appetizers didn’t grab me either. For entrees, I got the duck confit and Tom had fish with a medley of beans. It was a gorgeous plate of food.
The Muffuletta in Brodo didn’t look anything like I expected. The spaetzle was tiny, and the other components of a muffuletta were also minuscule. The flavor was sensational. I tried not to imagine the mortadella mousse either looking at it or tasting it. The baby spaetzle was interesting and the entire thing was terrific. In looking at the ingredient list on the menu, I saw why. It contained: Black Pepper Spaetzle, Provolone Picante, and Pistachio Butter. Normally I would have wanted more of something I liked this much, but the flavors were so rich and intense I was completely satisfied.
The crab salad looked like a crab salad. It was a beautiful presentation of a crab salad with citrus, but I was not prepared for the Wow! sensation I had tasting it. In looking at the menu I saw: Winter Chicories, Ginger Ravigote, and Pickled Peppers. I figured it should be lump crab meat in a place like this, or even jumbo lump, but the shreds of claw meat were no doubt chosen for the flavor it would add. Either way, this was the most wonderful crabmeat salad I believe I have ever had. The citrus offset the crabmeat flavor in a refreshing way, and I would love to have had some crusty bread and made a meal of this.
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The entrees came and the duck confit looked more intense than any duck confit I have encountered. And indeed it was. There were bits of things chopped and scattered about. The duck itself appeared crispier than any other duck confit, and was maybe deep-fried? It also has some intense spice in it too. The menu revealed: Balsamic-Salted Lime Gastrique, and Braised Acorn Squash. The "braised" white beans below the leg quarter were plump and tender and sitting in a reduction that was beautiful.
Tom’s Golden Tilefish was just the right size, seared expertly, and also served over beans, but not just any beans. The menu description stated: Heirloom Field Peas, Red Lentil Muhammara, and confit garlic. There was lettuce and some other greens on top as garnish. This was as beautiful as it was delicious, with Wild Sorrel Sauce adding a bit of fanfare, and more complex taste.
Meanwhile, Tom’s sister was busy with her cauliflower soup. This was not a good value at $16. It was served in a large bowl and there was barely enough soup to line the bowl. She liked it well enough but had a hard time getting past the lack of generosity.
We didn’t have time for dessert, but the waiter mentioned Egg Nog Crème brûlée. We had to try it. The portion was large. The crust on top was hard, but when cracked revealed a creamy custard, exactly as it should be.
The egg nog taste was dwarfed by the alcohol flavor. Even Tom tired of it after a few bites, which is quite unlike him. Crème brûlée is a favorite, and he can’t get enough egg nog. I would have expected him to be wild about this. Overall, it was too intense.
It was nice to revisit a place that was so much a part of Tom’s world. I rarely went to places like this, but I can see the attraction. The food is so next-level. There aren’t a lot of places like that out there. It is special. Gautreau’s is quite expensive, but the price is commensurate with the experience.
I imagine for people who are inclined to ”dine,” enjoying layer upon layer of food and drink, savoring it all with great conversation, this would be a regular stop on the circuit. It would be hard to find one to top it.
And for the rest of us, a Friday afternoon lunch splurge will have to suffice. I hope they offer it occasionally.
