The Food Show has had its moments of frenzy, when something catches the fancy of the audience and it builds on itself. Usually, this starts with a call that creates curiosity and it builds and builds. One of those moments I remember was in the late 1990s, and it was centered around tamales. Someone called to talk about a little joint in Metairie called Guillory’s, where the tamales were supposed to be outstanding. This was even back in the day before the much-beloved Manuel’s departed the scene after Katrina.
But these Guillory’s tamales had a healthy fan base of their own. Caller after caller weighed in to help anyone trying to find the place, tucked away in an unassuming Metairie neighborhood. Its proximity to a place called Whitey’s Pool Hall added to its allure.
It was this clue that helped me locate it recently after we had owner Pete on the show. I didn’t remember exactly where it was even though I have been several times since the tamale phenom days. We used to get excellent mini muffulettas from there for parties. Guillory’s is a neighborhood market and caterer. I have also had their excellent brown Cajun jambalaya, which is unfortunately only available in large quantities, or when there is leftover jambalaya from large quantities for parties.
On this recent visit, we ordered the famous tamales - a half-dozen. I also got a hamburger fully-dressed on poor boy bread with a side of onion rings. Tom got a roast beef poor boy, and we got a half muffuletta.
The hot tamales were hard to stop eating, and before long they were all gone. These were delta-style and had the meat integrated into the masa. They had a great flavor and were quite substantial. It was really enough for a meal, so I’m glad nothing else that we got tempted me in the least.
The hamburger was the griddle-cooked style of old-fashioned burger and was not a particularly good version of that. The onion rings were a little limp and a tad greasy.
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The muffuletta was perfectly fine and that’s the best I can say about it. There was real mortadella on it, dark salami with peppercorn chips, and plenty of cheese. The olive salad was fine, and the bread rather ordinary, which is the word I would use to describe the whole package, and in fact everything put before us. Except the tamales.
Tom’s roast beef was the epitome of ordinary. There was a lot of fat on the roast beef, which was sliced thicker than seemed appropriate, there wasn't a strong roast beef flavor in the gravy, and there just wasn't anything to recommend it. With Bear’s not far away now at Causeway in the Gennaro’s Bar, I would say they need to up their game, but they really don’t. The clientele at Guillory’s is a steady and loyal base of working people who stop in on their lunch break for a taste, literally and figuratively, of New Orleans. The price is right, the service quick, the ambiance (and I feel ridiculous using that word here.) comfortable and familiar.
I will leave Guillory’s to this reliable bunch of regulars. They certainly don’t need us anyway. But that jambalaya is definitely the real Cajun deal. And in the absence of our beloved Manuel’s, these tamales will do just fine when a delta tamale fix is needed.
And it may also be worth a visit to experience the neighborhood market and sandwich joint. They used to be everywhere in New Orleans but are now only an occasional window into a time gone by.
