The last trip I took with Tom was in 2019 when we rode the Orient Express and the trip ended in Venice. We ate at Harry’s Bar. I’ll never forget it. He had the signature carpaccio and I had pasta. My sweet memories of that trip and of Harry’s Bar in particular made a vintner dinner at Del Porto an easy sell for me. Generally speaking, I do not drink, and I didn’t even look at the menu, which definitely came back to bite me.
"A Night at Harry’s Bar” was a clever theme for the dinner, which was part of The Taste of Covington, a NOWFE-like event that is in its 15th year, showcasing the fantastic restaurants of Covington. David Solazzo spoke at the beginning of the dinner, mentioning that attendance had been down the last two years they hosted a dinner, so Torre came up with the idea to channel the famous Venice icon. They had a gondola on the bar that housed tubs of ice for the many Italian wines and Prosecco. Each place setting included a tiny booklet with history and pics of the real Harry’s Bar. It was well done.
The evening started with Bellinis and passed apps. Featuring a little ham and cheese pressed sandwich which I am told is a signature there (though I don’t remember that,) also chicken liver pate on crostini
and a fried ball of risotto. All of these were very good. I was hesitant at first to go for the pate, but it was good enough to have more. The risotto ball was great,
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and I loved the pressed ham and cheese with a hint of mustard.
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I went to the dinner not expecting to drink much, but I wound up almost fully participating in the dinner. After the Bellini and apps, I kept the carpaccio for eating later. It was beautiful, though not as beautiful as the real one at Harry’s, and all my table mates were enthralled. I helped myself to more of the Castelvetrano olives in a bowl in front of me. I did have some of the wine which was It was paired with a nice white blend Custoza "Greoto "Corte Gardoni. This was light and crisp.
The Risotto Nero came next. The squid ink rice sat in the center of the plate surrounded by a seafood white wine brodo, and was topped by two grilled shrimp and a few little rings of crispy calamari. Squid is something I usually pass on, but I couldn’t do that with the entire menu. I loved the basic grilled shrimp, and the risotto was cooked to the sweet spot , as I expected. The squid ink was balanced nicely by the shellfish and white wine broth, and I enjoyed this dish. This was paired with Garganega “Il Gian” Vignato.
The third course was Branzino, a Mediterranean fish in the sea bass family which is now turning up on menus all over this country. It’s mellow with white flakes. Here is was served with mushroom jus and crispy oyster mushrooms, an olive oil roasted potato slice and lots of large peas. Delish. Bardolino “Le Fontain”Corte Gardoni was paired with this.
The fourth course was a small NY Strip steak doused with salsa verde and a wedge of Polenta Abbrustolita. I never eat Strip steaks because they are chewy, but salsa verde makes everything better. I wasn’t crazy about the texture of the polenta, but it was fine. It was paired with Valpolicella Ripasso Superior Corte Volpini.
It surprises me that I am about to declare a course I never eat as the favorite of this dinner, but the meringue cake was sensational. Toasted meringue icing on top and presented beautifully, with Chantilly cream between layers, this was the star of the dinner, to me. Prosecco Rosé Brut Millesimato Sacchetto.
The menu says that this dessert is also a signature of Harry’s Bar. I will be back in Venice, and I will again visit Harry’s Bar. This time I will add that cake to the order.