Since pizza is a favorite food for me, we often talk about pizza on The Food Show, getting into the nuances of what constitutes real New York pizza, and how it differs from Neapolitan pizza. Since Neapolitan pizza is a relatively new phenomenon in the States, it often gets incorrectly labeled as just “pizza.”
On a recent trip to Los Angeles, I came away with great examples of both, and a Lagniappe report of Joan’s on Third, the place that inspired Allison Vega’s last restaurant, Larder. (Now owned by BRG.)
One of the things I consistently reference about authentic Near York-style pizza is that it is found only in New York, or in other large metro areas. I have no idea why this is, just that it is.
The last place I stumbled on it outside of New York was in Los Angeles, specifically Sherman Oaks, at a walk-up called The Pizza Wagon of Brooklyn. The place had that look, but I was thrilled to taste the pizza, which was the quintessential New York pie. Sold by the slice from behind smudged glass, warmed in the slamming-door ovens, this satisfied my eternal craving for a simple slice of thin crust covered in acidic rather than sweet red sauce, and loaded with pepperoni slices on top of a blanket of melted whole milk mozzarellla. The pepperoni should be curled around the edges enough to cup a little for a puddle of grease.
This chance meeting with New York pizza greatness now requires a drop-in every time I am in the area. The last time I did this I was a little disappointed. The slices were fresher and smaller, but at least all the tastes were the same. And of course, they were served on double white paper plates. Classic.
While I was there our son had a party at his house catered by a guy who comes with a traveling wood-burning oven that makes Neapolitan pizza. He ordered 7 different kinds of pizza, and a buffet is set with meatballs that take 3 minutes to warm in the 800-degree oven, as well as a Caesar salad.
They arrive with dough balls, roll out the crust, and in minutes it comes out as a hot pizza. We had Meat Lovers, pepperoni, cheese Margherita, mushroom, veggie, and chicken pizzas. Each of these was better than the next, and I was living a fantasy: endless pizza, even if it was Neapolitan.
The sauce for this was a thick crimson cooked-all-day sauce that was not sweet. The meatballs were perfect, and the Caesar was also everything you want it to be. Heaven.
The following day we went to the Farmer’s Market one of many in the place that started the genre. These are massive things with large tents of endless tables piled high with produce, and many other tents offering cooked foods.
We got a few things from these tents. There was no question that tamales would be purchased. We got a sweet corn tamale and a carnitas one I had mostly to myself.
I moved over to a bakery stall and got a spinach pie. It was tempting to gorge on all the offerings here, except the horchata. Restraint was necessary because we were heading next to Joan’s on Third, the second location of a popular neighborhood restaurant, but only if the neighborhood is really glamorous.
I remember the first time I stepped into Larder in Metairie after Allison Vega used her great taste and magic to transform the drive-thru fast food place into a place you didn’t want to just drive-thru.
Larder is casually elegant in a Martha Stewart way, with cases of salads and sandwiches made in the back. Cabinets of stylish merch line the white walls. Outside a French Garden distracts you from the highway traffic only a pebble’s throw away. It’s delightful.
The first time I walked into Larder I was instantly struck by its resemblance to Joan’s on Third. I told that to Allison Vega and she smiled knowingly, admitting the inspiration came from there.
I love Larder but I really love Joan’s, and I never pass up an opportunity to go there. It’s always a problem because I want everything there, and I do mean everything. Besides things to eat, there are things to just have. And there is never enough time to truly peruse the offerings, though that might be dangerous.
Coffee, teas, juices, and desserts are in one section, and everything else is wrapped inside a counter. Where you order and sit at a long communal table. There is a buzz in the air. Always.
On this visit there were pancakes on the table, some fake sausage, a breakfast burrito, a turkey club sandwich, some housemade potato chips, and a Fonut.
The potato chips are just about the most perfect potato chips I’ve ever had, and a decent-sized bag is $6.95. With six of us, they were gone in minutes. None of it lasted too long except the fake sausage. And why wouldn’t it?
I have had great breakfasts here, wonderful brownies, and other pastries, but this particular meal was the least good of them. The Fonut went quickly because it’s a donut. The breakfast burrito had chicken sausage and eggs in it, with sauces as accompaniment.
Two of us split the turkey sandwich and it was plenty enough for us both. The bread was that dense country-style sourdough, layered with beautiful house-roasted turkey breast and fresh dressings. This was a very good sandwich and very filling.
It was a nice outing and just being there reminded me that I haven’t been to Larder since BRG took it over. I hope they haven’t changed a thing and will expand on what they have. It’s nice to know when I am craving the Joan’s on Third experience, I don’t have to go as far.
