Just like the legendary soup that so exemplifies this city, New Orleans itself is a gumbo of cultures, mostly the European-French and Spanish, but also African, lending the spice to this cultural mix. The Creole influence is everywhere in this town, adding a spectacularly delicious complexity of flavors, even in Italian restaurants.
But back in the early Eighties, a few restaurateurs stepped away from the familiar and opened strictly French establishments. La Crepe Nanou has been delighting Uptown neighbors and romantics from all over since 1983. Cafe Degas followed in 1986. Daniel Bonnot was imported from France to open Louis XVI, and then left to open his own place on Metairie Road called Chez Daniel. The late Rene Bajeux was similarly imported, and he had Rene’s at the Pere Marquette until Katrina. There was the ill-fated Henri in the early Nineties at the Le Meridien Hotel, which lasted less than two years.
One of the very best, Crozier’s would likely still be going strong had it not been for Katrina. They started out in New Orleans East, showcasing how a serious French restaurant looked and tasted. They moved to Mid-City in a much more glamorous space at Bienville and Carrollton, and there met their demise. First Katrina, then construction took their will to continue. Gerard and Evelyn Crozier then uprooted to Tennessee, where Gerard became a Walmart greeter before an untimely death from a heart attack a few years later. As mercurial as his wife was charming, their talents are greatly missed.
Another husband and wife team, Jacques and Paige Saleun, came to New Orleans post-Katrina from NYC, where both had been working in high-end catering. Opening in Kenner a few months before Katrina, they did polished real French cooking. Looking for a wider audience for their culinary excellence, they moved to Metairie Road, coincidentally in the very same space occupied by their friend Daniel Bonnot with his Chez Daniel. Construction was also responsible for their end, after moving to South Peters right before major construction began there. Constant struggling after that misstep caused them to close December 31st of 2015.
And one of the greats toils away in relative obscurity as executive chef at Hotel Mazarin. It is not likely you will have the delicious food of Chef Agnes Bellet (pronounced An yez’) unless you are a bride having a wedding at Mazarin or a sister property in this gorgeous local chain. Too bad. Her food is what French cooking should be.
John Harris keeps a quiet profile since his Lilette was all the rage Uptown a few years back. Consistently good, he operates Lilette and Bouligny Tavern next door.
And now, a new era in French restaurants in New Orleans has begun. There is Couvant at the Eliza Jane Hotel. This Hyatt property is just beautiful, and the restaurant Couvant has a hip vibe attracting younger people in a classic French Bistro style. The food is quite good, and all the basics are here. Breakfast can be a quick pick-up of french pastries or dine in. hardly a chore in these surroundings.They have a three course “express lunch” for only $19, featuring classics like Chicken Paillard, Pissaladiere, and of course, quiche. Good fresh-cut fries.
Dominique Macquet is back with Bordeaux, his small French outpost on Magazine. The defining feature of this restaurant is the rotisserie, which makes the restaurant more casual in the day, and much more gourmet at night. Lunch menu is heavy on salads and rotisserie meats, and at night you will see the heavier meats and tartares and such, reflecting the namesake region of France. And Dominique’s long-time experience in the kitchen. More on this one later in this French-themed week.
But the real star of the emerging popularity of local French restaurants is Justine, the new concept from Justin Devillier, of La Petite Grocery and Balise. Located in the French Quarter on Chartres Street, it sits quietly among the other storefronts, until you come upon it and the name Justine pops out in pink neon. It is a stunning space, divided into what they call the “cafe” in the front, and the bar, which has its own considerable seating area. The restaurant’s hub is centered around the open kitchen, which is framed by an awning that came from a French butcher chop. Very cool. Communal tables by the front line where the food is expedited make dining here exciting. Three leather-lined booths also face the action, and then a darker back room also has a considerable number of seats. The restaurant has a sort of light ombre going, from light by the front door to quite dark in back. With a charming but tiny patio.
We first went to Justine on Valentine’s Day, as walk-ins. Yes. My wife’s idea, of course. We were ushered to the communal tables. Soon we were joined by several couples who made this quite an enjoyable experience. This is actually a very fun way to dine, we decided. Everyone was interested in what everyone had, and since we were the only locals, there was much to talk about.
My wife was delighted immediately, when Belle Garde Epi breads were brought to the table crusty and warm. She could have stopped there. But we didn’t. I got Oysters en Perseillade and Steak Tartare which were everything these two classics should be. She got onion soup, which was good but not the very dark version from which my wife measures all onion soups. And a Croque Monsieur, which was served with a delectable green salad with Bibb lettuce holding a light vinaigrette. The sandwich was thick with ham and a strong and wonderful Gruyere had a little crust on the melted edges. Very tasty. Though maybe a little soggy.
Opting for their homemade ice cream for dessert, I got vanilla and my wife chocolate. These were very rich with a super fatty mouthfeel that my wife finds very appealing. I liked the taste.
On another visit, ML got a burger which she wished had been cooked more, calling the texture a little off and blaming the rareness. And the fries here are peculiar. You would expect nothing less than a perfect fresh-cut fry, but these are rather ordinary, and very much look it. Not nearly as good as the ones at La Petite Grocery.
The burger course was preceded by a truly delicious fresh French salad with a light vinaigrette and a few interesting greens, including mint. This was a very large salad, enough for two, but so good not wanting to share it becomes a moral dilemma. My wife got a Poisson Amandine, which absolutely thrilled her. The butter sauce was perfection, the mountain of sliced almonds ample and delicious, and the fish, though thicker than she usually likes, quite tasty. And it even had the flavor of fish, which my wife usually finds offensive. Not in this case.
Also on the table was a shrimp cocktail, with a rich cocktail sauce and large shrimp done exactly as they ought to be.
We passed on dessert because, aside from the ice cream, there is no chocolate on this menu, a strict requirement if MA is eating dessert. She was particularly disturbed by a pots de creme. One of her favorite things. This was vanilla though. Blasphemy.
Justine
225 Chartres St New Orleans
504-218-8533
Monday
5:30 -11
Tue-Sun !1-11
Fri-Sat till 1am
justinenola.co
