Marigny Brasserie. Marigny: 640 Frenchmen. 504-945-4472.

Written by Tom Fitzmorris September 18, 2010 19:07 in

2 Fleur
Average check per person $35-$45
 BreakfastNo Breakfast SundayNo Breakfast MondayNo Breakfast TuesdayNo Breakfast WednesdayNo Breakfast ThursdayNo Breakfast FridayNo Breakfast Saturday
LunchLunch SundayLunch MondayLunch TuesdayLunch WednesdayLunch ThursdayLunch FridayLunch Saturday
DinnerDinner SundayDinner MondayDinner TuesdayDinner WednesdayDinner ThursdayDinner FridayDinner Saturday

Marigny Brasserie

Marigny: 640 Frenchmen. 504-945-4472. Map.
Casual
AE DC DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
In its seventeen years, the Marigny Brasserie has evolved more than any other eatery in the trendy Marigny Triangle. In its first incarnations, it purveyed hip, gourmet Creole bistro-style cooking. But in 2008 owner Roland Adams started over from scratch, and shifted the style to that of a neighborhood cafe--albeit a modern one. This boosted volume tremendously, particularly among out-of-towners. However, it brought down the interest level of the food. (And the prices.) An old story.

WHAT'S GOOD
The Marigny Brasserie's menu now is a catalog of the kind of cooking made popular in the 1980s by Chef Paul Prudhomme, Mr. B's, and Copeland's, but with more than a few updates, as tastes have trended backwards into the era of homestyle cooking. (Fried chicken, for example, which is great here.) It is thoroughly credible for anyone looking for food that sounds like it's from Louisiana.

BACKSTORY
Originally opened in much smaller quarters a block and a half away from the present spot, the Marigny Brasserie moved in 2002 to its present space. From the beginning some terrific chefs--many of whom left to open their own places--came through and kept the food interesting, although the changes over the years have thrown some of the regulars off balance.

DINING ROOM
At a commanding corner opposite Washington Square, the Marigny Brasserie is right in center of the Frenchmen Street strip of restaurants, bars, and music clubs. The dining room's clean, urbane lines and large windows contrast interestingly with the colorful parade of unique people on the sidewalk. A restaurant this cool always draws better-than-average servers, which they do indeed employ.

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starter
»Fried green tomatoes, shrimp remoulade
Fried onion rings, smoked onion sambal aioli
Garlic Tabasco hot wings
»Barbecue shrimp and grits
Baked oysters Marigny (chile sauce, breadcrumbs)
Crawfish cakes, corn corn maquechoux
Fried calamari, sweet muffuletta succotash
Cajun sliders (alligator, andouille and boudin)
»Chicken and andouille gumbo
»Strawberry walnut salad, blue cheese, spinach
Iceberg wedge
Caesar salad
Grilled watermelon salad, arugula, goat cheese, candied pecans
Entrees
»Blackened Gulf fish, dirty rice, Creole crawfish cream sauce
»Roasted half chicken
Baby back ribs
Shrimp and crabmeat au gratin
Stuffed jumbo gulf shrimp, pasta, Creole cream sauce
Red beans and rice
»Blackened shrimp or chicken, penne pasta
Grilled salmon, bourbon barbecue glaze, mushroom risotto
»Fried chicken
Grillades and grits
»Fried soft-shell crab, catfish shrimp or oyster platter
Fried seafood combo platter
Grilled alligator, andouille or boudin sausage platter
Three sides plate
Grilled vegetable plate
Grilled, blackened or fried: chicken, catfish or shrimp platter
Fried chicken livers with pepper jelly
Sandwiches
»Marigny muffuletta (on French bread)
Frenchmen Street poor boy (fried green tomatoes, fried shrimp, lettuce and remoulade sauce)
»Fried shrimp, catfish, oyster or crawfish poor boy
Blackened, grilled or fried chicken breast poor boy
Alligator, andouille or boudin sausage poor boy
»Soft-shell crab poor boy
»Barbecue shrimp poor boy
Grilled veggie poor boy
Fried chicken liver poor boy
Pork grillades and brown gravy poor boy
Hamburgers (several configurations)
Traditional club sandwich
Cafe Marigny #1 sandwich(turkey, cucumbers, avocado, sprouts, havarti cheese, on whole wheat or Texas toast)
Triple grilled cheese sandwich
Desserts
Chocolate eruption
»Bread pudding
»Creme brulee
Cheesecake
Toasted almond cake
Lemon tart

FOR BEST RESULTS
Weekends are the only time when parking might be a problem. Don't judge the restaurant by the crowd that might be in the bar, which can get loud. The wine list is better than you might imagine.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
I dunno. I can't help remembering how good this place used to be. But one could do much worse than dining here,

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

  • Dining Environment +1
  • Consistency
  • Service+1
  • Value +1
  • Attitude +2
  • Wine & Bar +1
  • Hipness
  • Local Color +2

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
  • Sidewalk tables
  • Romantic
  • Good view
  • Good for business meetings
  • 8-25
  • Open Sunday lunch and dinner
  • Open Monday lunch and dinner
  • Open some holidays
  • Open all afternoon
  • Easy, nearby parking
  • Reservations accepted