Isn’t crabmeat just a wonderful thing? And we have the best crabmeat here, and a lot of it. Tom once told me that we have so much crabmeat here we are able to ship it to the Mid-Atlantic, which has the same kind of crab.
The mid-Atlantic, especially Maryland, and specifically Baltimore, is the home of the crabcake. The real ones are almost exclusively crab lumps and held together by magic, apparently.
We have used our crabmeat in a more pedestrian fashion, using claw meat rather than lump and adding lots of spices and chopped vegetables along with breading, then stuffing it into something. This stuffing makes its way back into its own shell or into the head of a shrimp or the cavity of a fish.
All of these are noble uses of crab meat, which is a delicious “food of the gods.” In the last few years, we have seen the use of the word crabcake on menus here. Usually, these are nothing more than this same stuffing rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. Again, tasty stuff, but hardly a crabcake recognized like the ones from Maryland. Those are regal in nature, using only lump or jumbo lump with mysterious binders like bechamel or less appealing ones like pureed shrimp. They are lightly dusted on top and bottom with breadcrumbs and pan-seared to a delicate crust with butter.
Last year a little place appeared in Mandeville in a nondescript but nice strip mall, serving elegant Maryland -style crabcakes in a casual atmosphere. I think of these types of crabcakes as exclusively the domain of white-tablecloth fancy restaurants, but I have been converted.
Theron McCarthy has been a seafood wholesaler for thirty years. He has shipped so many blue crabs to Maryland that 11 years ago his oldest son opened a place to sell them in a restaurant.
And now Theron has opened a place in his native land, with plans to franchise the concept all over. The Maryland Blue Crab House is not my style of restaurant, but I really like it. Minimalist in decor, it is exactly right for what it is. Service is fast-casual, with a cool interior that celebrates the nautical, and specifically the main attraction: the blue crab.
The menu is small as well, featuring crabs, of course: fried softshells, crab dip, crap soup, boiled crabs, and the famous Maryland crabcake in lump or claw version. They are not deep-fried but neither are they pan-sauteed. They come in a basket with a little lettuce and tomato slices, having been air-fried.
On our first visit to The Maryland Blue Crab House, we had a crabcake of course, as well as crab dip and fish bites.
The crab dip came first. It was a creamy and thick version of a cheesy dip with a subtle balance of seasoning that put crab front and center. This was served with crostini and it was delicious. I wanted more of this even though it was an ample portion.
The little fish bites were nicely fried, golden brown, and crisp. Fish bites is not something I usually get, but I was intrigued by these and not at all disappointed.
And of course, the crabcake was, true to its name, a Maryland-style crabcake in look and taste. It was odd to see it in this casual setting, but good is good, and what’s not to love about great quality lump crabmeat held together by magic with little done to it? In this preparation, you can revel in the simplicity of this delicacy.
On our second visit, we had the claw crab version of the crabcake, which was equally good and $4 cheaper. I still think I’ll return for the lump crabcake.
Softshell crab was a special that day, and Tom got the softshell crab platter that came with a salad and side. We got the jambalaya, which is really very good. Theron is from the bayou, and it is a true brown Cajun jambalaya, with all that implies. I would get this in a big portion next time. The softshell crab was fat and meaty, and fried golden brown and greaseless. The batter was a bit thick for my taste, but it worked with the thickness of the crab. Tom raved about this. There was a side salad to this which was just fine for what it was.
While we were there both times people at nearby tables feasted on steamed crabs by the pile. These too are large and meaty. Theron has been in the wholesale business for so long he can get the best. It shows.
I like this little place, and that surprises me. I am not a fan of fast-casual service, and I am not a fan of spartan decor, but the place sparkles and the food is very good. And it’s quite different from everything else. The Maryland Blue Crab House may be named for another state, but it celebrates our local delicacy. And what could be wrong with that?
