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Northshore Empress
Covington: 31 Louis Prima Drive. 985-871-6975. Map.
Casual.
AE DC DS MC V
Website
WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
Until a few pho shops began opening on the North Shore in the past year, people often asked me why there was no Vietnamese food in either Mandeville of Covington. They were surprised when I told them of this place, which many of them knew was there--usually from having seen it from the parking lot of Copeland's, across the street. The assumption was that North Shore Empress was Chinese, because of its good looks. In fact, the people who own it are Vietnamese, and the menu has as much from that cuisine as Chinese.
WHAT'S GOOD
Both the Chinese and Vietnamese sides of the menu include the basics of the cuisine and not much beyond. This is not a restaurant for extending your life list of Asian dishes. They start with good ingredients and turn out handsome, tasty, clean-flavored dishes, in the usual mammoth portions that the cuisines are known for.
BACKSTORY
Northshore Empress began serving in the year following Katrina. Its location near the Home Depot brought it a brisk initial trade, enough to establish a fair number of regulars.
DINING ROOM
The spacious dining room is dramatically decorated, particularly in the lighting department. The service staff is enthusiastic, and asking about the Vietnamese dishes will bring forth particular attention to your order.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Starters
»Egg rolls, shrimp and roast pork
»Fried mini spring rolls
»Crab delight
»Shrimp toast
Fantail shrimp
Hawaiian shrimp
Hi hop (dumplings, shrimp and roast pork)
Fried wonton
Barbecue pork
Barbecue pork ribs
Beef teriyaki
»Pot stickers
Egg drop soup
»Hot and sour soup
Chinese vegetable soup
Wonton soup
Yat ca mein soup
»First Asian soup
Empress soup
Chinese Entrees
Lo mein (soft noodles): shrimp, pork, chicken, beef, vegetable or combination
Fried rice (white or brown rice): shrimp, pork, chicken, beef, vegetable or combination
Boneless fried chicken
Mandarin chicken
»Moo goo gai pan
Chicken chow mein
Sweet and sour chicken or shrimp
Lemon chicken or shrimp
Curry chicken or shrimp
»Kung bo chicken, shrimp, or beef
Chicken, shrimp or beef with broccoli
»Spicy Empress chicken, shrimp or pork (spicy)
»Honey chicken, shrimp or pork
Green pepper steak
Beef, chicken, pork or shrimp with Chinese vegetables
Hunan beef or shrimp
»Char sui pan
Shrimp with lobster sauce (brown sauce upon request)
Fried shrimp with vegetables
Triple dragon
Lomi lomi
Steak kew
»Sesame encrusted chicken
Long fong steak (medium well steak and chicken)
Sweet romance
»Crispy duck
Mandarin duck
»Hunan duck
Moo shu pork, chicken, or shrimp
Vegetable chow mein
Vegetable chop suey
»Braised tofu with Chinese vegetables
Vietnamese rice-noodle soups (pho)
»Pho tai (medium rare flanks of beef)
»Pho ga (white meat chicken)
Pho bo vien (beef meatballs)
Pho tai bo vien (beef and meatballs)
Pho tai ga (beef and chicken)
Pho combo (beef, chicken, and meatballs)
»Pho tai bo vien (beef and meatballs)
Pho tai ga ( beef and chicken)
Pho combo (beef, chicken, and meatballs)
Pho tofu
Pho vegetable (Chinese vegetables)
Pho tai vegetable (beef and vegetables)
Pho ga vegetable (chicken and vegetables)
»Pho bo vien vegetable (meatballs and vegetables)
»Pho shrimp
Other Vietnamese dishes
Jasmine rice with char grilled lemongrass chicken
»Jasmine rice with char grilled pork chops
»Jasmine rice with half asian style rotisserie (crispy) chicken
Rice vermicelli noodles with sautéed beef and onions
»Rice vermicelli noodles with fried mini spring rolls
Rice vermicelli noodles with char grilled shrimps
»Spicy Asian barbecue pork chops, marinated with ginger and spices
Desserts
»Fried raspberry cheesecake with vanilla ice cream
Turtle brownie sundae with vanilla ice cream
FOR BEST RESULTS
The Vietnamese dishes are a little better than the Chinese, but there aren't as many of them. Mixing the two cuisines in a single meal is not a bad idea. Know that such things as chow mein, chop suey, and yat ca mein are there only to serve people who won't try anything else.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
More range across the menu would be welcome. I wish the menu described the more complex chef's specialties a bit more.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
- Dining Environment +1
- Consistency +1
- Service+1
- Value +2
- Attitude +1
- Wine & Bar -1
- Hipness
- Local Color
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
- Romantic
- 25-75
- Open all afternoon
- Quick, good meal
- Good for children
- Easy, nearby parking
- Reservations accepted
