The brand new Otravez in the brand new Standard Residences on O'Keefe at Julia is a pretty place. Different. Arresting. Just like the food.
We try to be hip. We really do. But throughout the meal the general consensus was that we'd rather be eating less challenging versions of everything before us. It was good. On the table were guacamole and salsa, Queso Fundido, a tamal, short ribs, and steak tacos. There was a beautiful drink with a garden in it, and three iced teas that we learned were $4 each when the bill arrived. The guacamole did not offend, or particularly impress. The very dark salsa was a little scary looking. Not so bad to taste, but not so desirable to keep tasting it. The Queso Fundido was authentic, no doubt. Served with pumpkin seeds and honey on top, it was thoughtfully presented in an elevated dish with a candle beneath it for warming. This was a surprise at first bite, and it did get better with each bite. But there is no need to eat it again.The chips served with it were warm tortillas that were whole, crisp, dusted with spices, and boring. Also on the table was a sweet potato tamal (you'd never call it a tamale in a place like this) bursting out of a banana leaf, and short ribs with pickled vegetables. The steak tacos, which looked good under a generous dollop of tomatillo sauce, were like a culinary Mexican roulette: one-bite-meat-one-of-fat. The sweet potato tamal didn't make a statement, but the short ribs did. These were much larger than the usual versions, but that doesn't translate to meatier. It was mostly just larger bones, three to an order, beautifully presented in a long wooden bowl for $22. Covering the meat was a medley of pickled vegetables. The flavor was piquant and the pickling delicious, but it was not much food. Again, not a problem, because the desire to eat more was not there. This meal was exactly $100, reflecting the superior quality of the ingredients and the polish of everything before us, including the service. You should go try this, but we're not inclined to again. Chef Akhtar Nawab received a Michelin Bib Gourmand Award for her Brooklyn restaurant Alta Calidad. Is it just us?
Otra Vez
1001 Julia St New Orleans 70130
504-354-8194
Lunch Mon-Fri 11am-3:30pm
Dinner Mon-Th 5pm-11pm On Friday and Saturday till midnight
Brunch Sat/Sun 10am-3:30pm
Dinner Sunday 5pm-10:30pm
otraveznola.com
