For the entirety of our relationship, Tom and I had a recurring argument. Nothing personal, or of any great importance, and it remains unresolved. It is: what is more important? Food or atmosphere?
For Tom it was all about the food. For me it was mostly about the experience. Ambience wasn’t everything. I won’t go to Landry’s at the lakefront even though I love the view because I hate the food. I prefer to go next door to Blue Crab where I can have both. I left Palmetto’s on the Bayou in Slidell thinking these thoughts. The food is not brilliant at Palmetto’s on The Bayou, but it is much improved since they imported a chef from the south shore. But the place is in a class by itself.
It is situated on Bayou Bonfouca in Slidell, and there is a dock if you want to pull up your boat to dine. Dining may be a stretch, because such a place is casual by its very nature. It is exotic. I think I could be in the Amazon when I am there. Calling it lush is an understatement. I would not be at all surprised to meet an alligator on the walkway from the bayou. (So I look at the walkway from a higher point.)
There are so many points from which to enjoy this large property there is no need to get into the jungle. The house itself is beautiful. Every room is casual but elegant and there are several rooms. The collection of rooms of the inside space is dwarfed by the outside parts.
A back patio has several spaces and is collectively as large as the interior. The grounds are extensive and often used as an event space. And everywhere there is exotic lush greenery, and lights strung about. Enchanting.
I went recently to investigate a tip from a listener whose opinion I trust implicitly. He told me they were doing barbecue. There is indeed a separate section fenced off from the main house and marked with a sign in cowboy lettering.
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Beyond the fence is yet another gorgeous expanse of lawn on one side and a patio on the other. The patio features a long handsome wooden bar where orders are taken for the barbecue. Outdoor furniture is the seating for this barbecue venture, and there are misters and fans to lessen the effects of the oppressive heat. Little private spaces are elevated above the patio amidst the lush foliage.
There’s a little blackboard at the bar with the specials of the day, but there are basics that remain on the menu. I ordered chicken wings that are smoked then deep-fried and covered in one of the sauces they offer, like the old WOW Wingery. I got the Buffalo and Butter Garlic sauces. These came with barbecue sauces.
And I ordered the brisket with two sides and ribs with two sides. The sides were potato salad and coleslaw, beans and gouda grits. They originally said there was no sliced brisket but there it was.
I ate the wings while I waited for the rest of the order. These were really great. Not bloated, which matters a lot to me. Normal-sized wings are much preferable to wings the size of turkey legs. I loved the wings at WOW back in the day, and these reminded me of those. The Buffalo sauce was threshold hot, but the garlic sauce was great.
I asked for the ribs dry but I almost wished I had them sauced. Not because I didn’t like them, but I think the sauce was pretty good too, and I do like sauced ribs. These were meaty and tender baby back ribs. They came with the most delicious gouda grits. I usually don’t care for fancy grits but lately I have had a succession of delicious fancy grits, and these were among the best.
And I had coleslaw which was chopped fine, a version I don’t usually like. This was not especially creamy, but it had pickles in it, and that makes everything better for me.
The brisket was sliced about a half inch thick, with the full layer of fat on top. As I have often said, I love animal fat, but this was a bit much. That was its only fault and easily fixable. It was tender and otherwise perfect. It’s not Gonzo, but it definitely works. I’ll run there and get barbecue whenever I need a fix.
The sides for the other plate were baked beans and potato salad. The potato salad was mostly only chunky potato and sour cream, but what could be wrong with that? And the baked beans were some of the best I’ve had, with a heavy black pepper component. They were the ideal consistency. Really very good. With a nice spice level.
I returned for the Jazz buffet brunch on Sunday. It’s no secret that another discussion Tom and I had was over the usefulness of the buffet. There was no reason for a buffet, ever, to him, and of course I loved them. But buffets have gone the way of Blockbuster video at about the same time. Tom always marveled at their staying power long before that. He wondered how they could be worthwhile for any restaurant, with the unpredictability of what dishes would be popular. They seem to be making a comeback, in the same way as bell bottom pants. Yes, they’re out there, and occasionally you may run into one, but it’s rare.
I remember the Lakehouse had one before Hurricane Ida took it out. It was a glamorous affair thst reminded me a a wedding each weekend. It was $33 for a very nice spread. The one at Palmetto’s for $35 is also a spread that runs the gamut of everything they do. There is the omelet station and a waffle station, cold seafood, fried seafood and fried chicken,
and a carving station.
There is a salad table and a dessert table, and a dizzying array of hot entrees and sides like grillades and grits, jambalaya, roast beef debris and rice, macaroni and cheese, barbecue chicken and ribs, creamy chicken pasta, and various vegetables like green beans and baked beans.
This is all arranged smartly and appealingly in one of the dining rooms. Outside a jazz band plays easy listening music under roof on the back porch.
It is busy but very organized, with friendly staff making it happen. Everyone leaves with a little bag of beignets. A nice touch.
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None of this is brilliant. None of it is gourmet. It is a casual feed for Slidell, which is a different crowd than the one in Mandeviile, but both groups of people would agree that good food in lovely surroundings is a fine way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
