Last month was a whirlwind of holiday dining for us. We went to two Dickie Brennan places in two consecutive days. (It was a little embarrassing, to be honest.) The day after a great experience at The Audubon Clubhouse we had a reservation for Commander’s Palace but when we arrived I could see it was such a madhouse it was a no-go for Tom. In driving down St. Charles wondering where to go I remembered Pascal’s Manale. We hadn’t been since Dickie took it over so we called for a reservation for five minutes later. They were gracious to accommodate us and we sat down as soon as we arrived.
We noticed immediately that nothing had changed, but everything had changed. The place looks exactly the same, but the spirit of the place is alive again. I had never seen this Pascal’s Manale, but I imagine many years ago it was like this. Every table was filled, the air rocked with raucous laughter, and a good time was had by all, even for people like us who just watched it. This is New Orleans dining in its heyday, or at least in my imaginings.
Dickie’s sister Lauren was at the front of the house, and Dickie arrived a bit later to walk among tables and laugh with guests. This scene must have been his vision when he took up the task of rescuing this legendary place.
I was a little surprised to see it looking exactly the same because he purchased it on St. Patrick’s Day last year. There has certainly been enough time for much-needed renovations. He mentioned that it is part of a puzzle of various renovations, but the emergency renovation required was a new roof. He got dripped on many times in a walk-through before purchasing.
After speaking to him the day we visited, I did not get the impression he would be materially changing too much. The really important thing had already changed. The place has awakened!
Even the food had more life to it. I know that sounds ridiculous, but it is true. The experience started when bread arrived at the table. I do love the New Orleans tradition of warm bread in a little bag which is a trademark of the grand ones. Pascal’s Manale continues it and I love it. This bag had the Dickie Brennan’s logo too.
We ordered a crab cake and fried oysters as apps, and then two items from the lunch menu. The lunch menu at Pascal’s Manale has always been good but I don't see a lot I wanted to eat on it, which isn’t different from the last time I was there. The price is right though, two courses for an average of $20.
When the oysters arrived it was exciting. Here were some of the most beautiful fried oysters I have run across lately. They were enormous and plump, perfectly golden brown, and totally greaseless. Tiny bits of chopped parsley were sprinkled about, creating an arresting-looking plate a diner can’t wait to dive into. The accompanying tartar sauce was lumpy but also delicious. We could have done a few orders of this.
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My crabcake was not the jumbo lump variety. It was a pan-seared and very large ball of crab stuffing. It was a more homely version of the best ones, but still delicious and nicely presented with its napping of remoulade and dusting of parsley bits. I could have made a meal of this and the crusty bread from the bag. Both of these apps were very filling.
A baby house salad came next, with a daunting choice of housemade dressings. I didn’t care for mine enough to even remember what it was, but Tom’s balsamic dressing was delicious and plentiful enough for two. The petite salad was just the right size and came with a whole banana pepper to add some kick. Interesting lettuces and all very fresh.
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Tom has often said that I order wrong, and he is right. I got a shrimp dish which I didn’t care for. I was suspicious just reading it, but I didn’t know what else to get. Shrimp in a white wine sauce, but served over Brabant potatoes was the part that raised my eyebrows. I got it anyway, because I love shrimp, and I love Brabant potatoes, so what could go wrong? But shrimp and Brabant potatoes maybe shouldn’t be together in a sauce. I should have asked for pasta instead. Also, the white wine sauce didn’t have a lot of flavor.
Tom had grilled catfish with crabmeat and artichokes in a creamy lemon butter sauce. The sauce looked a bit heavy when it arrived, but a grilled catfish was beneath it, and Tom loves grilled catfish. This was gone pretty quickly, with rave reviews from Tom.
We arrived too late to have dessert and get back for the radio show, so we left after the entrées. Dickie came over and reminded Tom of having dinners with his dad, saying that the sight of Tom made him miss his dad. It was a sweet conversation. I asked him about the renovations, which seemed ready to commence after the new year. (So now.) But he was vague about where and when.
And then we had to scurry off, reluctant to leave a place where the volume at times had gotten so loud waiters were shouting to get orders. Fun!
We haven’t been back since that lunch, but we vowed to be back before long. This could become a regular place to hang out. It’s New Orleans as it should be, and it’s thrilling to see it back. See you there!
