Ristorante Da Piero

Kenner: 401 Williams Blvd. 504-469-8585. Map.
Nice Casual.
AE DS MC V
Website

WHY IT'S NOTEWORTHY
In a century-old cottage in Kenner's historic Rivertown section, Piero Cenni and his family serve the food of the Romagna region of Italy. That's a style we don't see much, outside spaghetti bolognese--and even that is rarely made the way they do it in Bologna, as they do here. Although much of the menu is familiar to fans of Italian cooking, a lot of it is unique to this establishment, and delicious to boot.

WHAT'S GOOD
There's a nice tension between the stridently traditional dishes and the much trendier specials of second-generation chef Paolo Cenni. One minute you're eating steamed mussels with pancetta or fresh pasta with a hearty, meat-flecked red sauce. The next you have rabbit with demi-glace and sage or grilled halibut in front of you. One is as good as another. Meanwhile, Papa makes it all seem as if it's happening in the Romagna countryside. Great Italian wines, too.

BACKSTORY
Piero originally opened his restaurant in downtown Ponchatoula. He moved it to Kenner in 2004, taking over an old house that itself had been moved recently. It was was the home of the Centannis, one of the first families of Kenner. Nice coincidence: Centanni means "a hundred years" in Italian. That's about how old the house is.

DINING ROOM
A distinctive, comfortable, antique environment. The three front rooms of what was a shotgun single have become one large dining room, with heavy wood plank floors, high ceilings, and transoms. A nice adaptive restoration. The room is served by Piero's other son Giacomo, as well as Piero and his wife Evelyn. Some evenings, an opera singer strolls the room singing Italian songs..

ESSENTIAL DISHES
Crostini misti
»Steamed mussels with pancetta and cippolini onions.
Carpaccio.
»Steamed mussels with pancetta and tomato.
»Insalata Caprese (tomato and fresh-milk mozzarella salad).
Oyster Caesar salad.
»Strozzapreti pasta with speck (smoked prosciutto), arugula, and cream.
»Gorgonzola gnocchi.
Tortelloni Romagnola (small rolled ravioli with ricotta and spinach stuffing).
»Filetto di manzo ai pepe verde (steak with peppercorns).
Veal Marsala.
Mixed grill of meats.
»Rabbit with Madiera sage sauce.
»Molasses crusted duck with mushrooms with goat cheese ravioli).
»Tiramisu.

FOR BEST RESULTS
The mixed grill sounds much better than it is, even though it is a pure Bolognese classic. Portions are very large, so order accordingly.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
Piero is doctrinaire about his cuisine, and the menu can be a little off-putting to those who come expecting typical New Orleans Italian cuisine.

FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.

Dining Environment +2

Consistency

Service+1

Value +1

Attitude

Wine & Bar +1

Hipness +1

Local Color +3

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

• Live music some nights
• Outdoor tables, drinks only
• Romantic
• Good view
• Good for business meetings
• 8-25
• Historic
• Good for children
• Easy, nearby parking
• Reservations accepted

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