The first time I ever saw Tom Fitzmorris was one night early in my career when he dropped into the old WBYU late in the evening. I was finishing an evening shift as a DJ of Big Band records, a position I was so woefully unqualified for I chuckle as I write this. I was still smarting from fielding a barrage of abuse from callers who “corrected" my mispronunciation of “The Beguine” in Artie Shaw’s famous tune. I needed a little assistance with some production, and there was Tom. I was dating someone at the time, but I thought he was very nice, helpful, and had nice eyes.
I remember that chance meeting every time I go to Slice Pizzeria on St. Charles, because that radio station, now part of the Entercom cluster, was located next door. Neither the station nor the record store that predated Slice has been around for ages, but the raffish building that now houses Slice looks like it has had little done to it. This is a very peculiar but interesting place. Very linear, it is a good date place if you really like your date and want to have a private conversation. All wood, tiny booths line one wall across from where the pizzas are made and food is prepared from an open kitchen. But there is no glamorous imported pizza oven here. This is the New York-style and New York pizza style oven, with the rectangle doors that slam shut when the pizza paddle goes in and out.
This used to be a much more ambitious kitchen, tending toward gourmet Italian at times. But all of that is long gone - pizza and salads now, including a lunch buffet. This is and has always been, a great New York-style pizza - the kind with the dense crust that holds up and stands outstretched without folding down when you hold it. It has a great flavor, and the toppings are of good quality.
Before tattoo sleeves were de rigueur in transplanted New Orleanians of a certain age group, this was tattoo central. Now the staff at Slice is almost quaint. I still can’t say I like the environment, but the pizza is solid. Here is a by-the-slice slice to make a stop for. And that is what I do when I am in the neighborhood and hungry.
My favorite here is the sausage, which is so thinly sliced it’s like a pepperoni slice. I usually get mushrooms on any slice here, but on my last visit, I got the meat lovers. It was loaded with meat, though I wouldn't get this again. Not a ham on pizza person. But the crust that stands up lightly dusted on the bottom with cornmeal remains.
It was on this last visit that I noticed a lunch buffet for $11. It bears no resemblance at all to Little Caeser’s. Trust me.
Slice Pizzeria
1513 St. Charles Ave. New Orleans
504-525-7437
Sun-Th 11-10
Friday & Saturday till 11
slicepizzeria.com
