It was a big haul for us to make it to The Husky, but it was really worth it. I’m not much on theme restaurants, because in a place like New Orleans the theme is delicious food. I was a little suspicious, yet curious to learn that The Husky is a take on a hunting lodge. The Bar at R’evolution reminds me of that, and I like it a lot. So I was definitely game to try The Husky, at least until I can get to a real hunting lodge, (minus the hunting.)
The place is very handsome, dark, with wood paneling everywhere. Soft lighting adds to the glamour and mystique. I was a little worried about Tom negotiating his way through to sit down, but the hostess couldn’t have been more accommodating. The bar is what greets you upon entrance, and the dining room is to the right. Handsome banquettes make up about half of the seating, making for an intimate and comfortable dining experience. We sat at a table and still had a comfortable seat with plush leather chairs.
Our waiter was as friendly and welcoming as the hostess and he approached our table immediately, focusing on cocktail offerings as is the case now in dining in general, and in places like this in particular. The bar here is striking.
The menu was appealing, so appealing I felt a need to return to have all the things I wanted. We passed on the crudo app in order to get Tom crispy oysters. This was an app menu for Tom, or any more advenbturesome eater than I am. Steak Tartare, Bone Marrow, Lamb Lollipops. I had to get the macaroni and cheese from the sides menu.
For entrees I got the petite filet and Tom wanted the fish, which this evening was Black Drum. There were lots of elements in the fish dish, so I got a few slides with the steak. If we are in a steakhouse creamed spinach is on the table, and some sort of potato. There was only mashed potatoes here which don’t always move me, but the waiter mentioned a burger and fries when pitching the Happy Hour special. I asked if they were cutting them in-house and when it was affirmed that they were, I ordered fries as a side.
The macaroni and cheese was astonishingly great. It was so boring to look at the surprise was even stronger. This one was made with cavatappi pasta, which I used to love as a macaroni and cheese noodle, but my enthusiasm is on the wane. There was no crust on top as I think must be standard, but that is rare. Most of these ubiquitous sides around town are creamy in nature, which is not a favorite of mine. This one was sensational. I hate to admit it, but it might be better than my benchmark for the dish, the one right here at The Cool Water Ranch. The Husky version was made simply with a medley of rich cheeses and a lot of cream, and I just couldn’t stop eating it. Good thing the portion was smallish or I might have been sick. And there was more to eat.
Tom’s oysters were equally rich. They arrived in a pewter dish with indentions. Each little crater contained some creamed spinach, a large crispy oyster, a nugget of thick bacon and tomato Hollandaise. A touch at the end was grated cheese. There was a lot of flavor and texture contrast here. Interesting and delicious. And filling. We could have stopped after apps.
But there was more! Tom’s enormous fish dish also had a lot of competing elements. There was a paneed fish filet stacked in two pieces, accompanied by broccoli florets cooked to what I call the “sweet spot.” There were cannellini beans and rice, but the overwhelming flavor was spice, and it was overpowering. I don't ever understand this. Flaky white fish, generally speaking, have a mildish flavor that is completely overpowered by heavy spice. This dish would have been better with a lighter hand here.
As the time approached for my steak to arrive, there is a service affectation that is fun. The waiter arrives with a selection of steak knifes. The collection was interesting, and frankly, I had a time choosing.
My petite filet was adorable. I get petite filets everywhere, but this was petitest of them all. It was barely larger than a lamb lollipop. This size factor was mildly obscured by a cute little bouquet of rosemary and sage. When it was removed the truth was revealed. This soundls like a complaint, but it really isn’t. I was just amused. I never order my own steak at a restaurant because I don’t eat a lot of it. I do the sides, which are always more interesting anyway. I slice around the crusty edges of Tom’s rare steak. This little baby steak worked for me, but I chuckled as I imagined the reaction of someone who might have wanted a little more meat.
This was a tender steak with a good flavor, and it was very pleasing to me. Honestly, I would get this everywhere there is steak, but at the same price as all the other much larger petite filets around town it is an arresting visual.
When the frites arrived I was mildly disappointed in these as well. To repeat my tired screed on housecut fries: The exercise of cutting one’s own potatoes in-house is not for the faint of heart. Few do it. I am always impressed by the effort. But if the fries are sitting after they have long been out of the fryer, they become limp and cold. All the extra work of getting them into the fryer after blanching and cutting them yourself and whatever other steps have been done to make them special becomes moot. This has happened twice in each of the last two places offering housecut fries. Other than this distraction, the fries were fine. The standard ⅜” size, and a little darker than I’d like, they were otherwise okay. I didn’t care for the assertive aioli served with it.
The creamed spinach was also just okay. It was a bit runny and a little dull on flavor, but creamed spinach is spinach, and it still works. The portion was small too.
When the last things I say about a place are negative, it casts a negative light on the report. The truth is that even though this is a mixed review, I’m just nit-picky and detailed in my observations about a dining experience. I loved the Husky and look forward to returning. The vibe is fun, the food is very good, and the staff is great. It’s a great place to sink into one of the appealing banquettes and savor drinks, good food and conversation with others, whether it’s an intimate party of two or ten. Go.
