Who would have guessed that the most interesting cuisine to receive local emphasis this year would be the food of Colombia? We find ourselves with four (maybe even five, depending on where you draw the border) restaurants serving the food you'd eat and love if you were to travel to Cartagena. One of them is a credible candidate for best new restaurant of any kind in 2013. Its name (pronounced "mah-EESS ah-RHEP-ahss") is also that of the central menu item. Arepas are the tortillas of Colombia, made with more or less the same cornmeal masa that also makes soft corn tortillas for Mexican tacos, but much thicker--about a quarter inch or more. They're grilled and used to make sandwiches of almost anything you can think of, with the emphasis on grilled meats.
Mais Arepas opened in early 2013, the brainchild of former Baru Bistro partner David Mantilla. He hails from Cali, on the Pacific coast of Colombia. That background brings an assortment of dishes different from that of the more familiar Caribbean side of the country, and you begin to see some Peruvian influence.
The location is right on the line that separates Center City from the unchic side of the Warehouse District, a half-block uptown from the elevated expressway. The neighborhood is full of grand old mansions, and is beginning to turn around. Some people might find it sketchy, especially given the scarce lighting at night. That has not kept the two cool dining rooms from filling up almost every night. The bar is a good place to eat. The servers are fully bilingual and give great explanations and recommendations.
You need to know a couple of words. "Hogao" is Colombian Creole sauce, like ours without the celery, cooked a bit softer. "Valluno" refers to the style of western Colombia. "Aji" denotes the presence of hot peppers.
| Attitude | 2 |
|---|---|
| Environment | 1 |
| Hipness | 3 |
| Local Color | 2 |
| Service | 2 |
| Value | 1 |
| Wine | 1 |
