Pardo's

Restaurant Review

Anecdotes & Analysis

"It makes you feel like you're Uptown," was the first comment I heard about Pardo's. That captures the place exactly. Despite the affluence of much of the Mandeville-Covington corridor, diners there have shown a preference for the very straightforward, eschewing complexity or adventurousness in the restaurants they frequent. But apparently a certain, younger crowd has ached to have some restaurants like this. The location across the highway from the monopolistic movie complex only helps Pardo's popularity.

Something else I heard at the beginning: "It's a little expensive." Not by Uptown standards, no. But noticeably higher than Northshorinians are accustomed to.

Why It's Essential

Pardo's is the first North Shore restaurant to offer the food, service and style of the gourmet Creole bistro. Such restaurants have been dominant in New Orleans proper since the early 1980s, but until now they never got a purchase across the lake. After eight months, Pardo's has become solidly popular for its kitchen's verve and creativity. It claims to serve American food, but the ingredients and flavors are clearly those of Louisiana.

Backstory

Owner Osman Rodas came out of the Emeril's restaurant organization to open Pardo's in May 2012. The address is in one of the dozens of small strip malls near the burgeoning I-12/LA 21 intersection, where most of the major stores in West St. Tammany Parish have clustered in recent years. The chef is Jason West, a young local guy who worked around the country after culinary school.

Dining Room

Pardo's took over a handsome space built out a few years ago by an Italian cafe that didn't make it. It left behind a wood-burning oven and a spiffy open kitchen. The design of the room is cool and spare, with white dominating the bar in a striking way. The lighting is flattering, music a shade too loud and too Seventies. The service staff will be familiar to frequent North Shore diners, and they remember you, too.

For Best Results

Pardo's is full most nights, and it wouldn't be prudent to show up without a reservation. However, the bar makes good, generous cocktail, and it's clear that some people like to spend time there before sitting down. The mnore artistic dishes are also the most delicious.