Phil's Grill exploits the deep-seated love we all have for hamburgers to an extent and with a success that would have been hard to imagine a few years ago. Phil's nudges up the quality of the raw materials, cooks everything to order, and lets customers customize from an astonishing array of meats and condiments. The result is a hamburger superior to ninety percent of the burgers sold in America. However, that's not quite high enough to top the hamburger you could make at home if you put even a little extra effort into the job.
Throughout the national recession, one segment of the restaurant business continued to grow explosively. It's what the industry calls the "better burger" shop, in which various hallmarks of quality (thickness, freshness, and variety) are touted as prices multiply by factors of from three to five. Chains like Five Guys and Fatburger haven't found their way here (because they're too afraid of us and our environment), so a few local operators have done well filling the gap. After working in chain restaurant management for a number of years, Phil de Gruy opened Phil's Grill early in 2007. A second location briefly existed in Mandeville; a second second location is now open in Hammond.
The bright dining room is walled mostly by glass, but it feels more like a neighborhood cafe than a burger joint. Which is good, because they do cook everything to order, and you will have to wait, even if you get a table right away. Which you probably won't, because the place has become very popular. A crowd is often seen milling around in the parking lot.
The most distinctive item on the menu is the bison burger. It tastes like beef to me, but the fat level is lower. Insist that it be medium rare: bison tightens up. The more exotic combinations I've tried were more interesting than good. But it could be said that it's my fault because I chose something weird.
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