Liborio
Backstory
Liborio opened in the French Quarter in 1969, and although it's moved a couple of times and had ownership changes, it has been in continuous operation. Yet, except for people who work in that part of the CBD or Cubans, it's not well known. Every time I eat there I wonder why that is--other than, perhaps, the long-running curse on any kind of restaurant attempting to serve dinner downtown.
Dining Room
A long room with an attractive tiled floor and draped ceiling. Despite those modern touches, it feels in some ways as venerable as Antoine's or Tujague's. The building predates the Civil War.
Why It's Essential
Cuban friends all say the same thing about Liborio: it's good, but not as good as the Cuban food their grandmothers make. To those of us without that resource, Liborio has been a good place to remember for decades. It cooks all the Cuban specialties, along with a scattering of Mexican and Spanish dishes. Some straightforward grilled items are here for those hesitant to try unfamiliar cuisines.
Why It's Good
Liborio is frequented mainly by people who work in the CBD and who have a taste for Mexican food (hence the tacos). The Cuban steak is the best I've had. Roast pork and congri, ropa vieja, and the other Cuban specialties are as good as they are filling--usually. (There's a little consistency problem.) At lunch, the various Cuban sandwiches (like a poor boy, with a different array of ingredients, and press-toasted bread) are wonderful.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Starters And Sides</strong></em><br /> Sauteed mixed vegetables<br /> »Boiled or fried yuca with garlic mojo<br /> Green plantain chips<br /> »Sweet fried plantains<br /> »Black beans<br /> Brown rice<br /> »Empanada (beef, chicken or shrimp pie)<br /> »Cuban tamale corn and pork tamale<br /> Chicken croquettes<br /> <em><strong>Salads And Soups</strong></em><br /> Italian salad<br /> »Mixed salad (lettuce, tomato, asparagus, beets, avocado (when available)<br /> Grilled chicken, tuna, salmon or grilled shrimp salad<br /> »Gazpacho<br /> Shrimp and garlic soup <br /> Chicken noodle soup<br /> <em><strong>Entrees</strong></em><br /> <em>(Most served with black beans, rice, and plantains)</em><br /> Gambas al ajillo (sauteed shrimp, olive oil, garlic, white wine, black pepper sauce)<br /> Grilled tuna or salmon, pepper, garlic, white wine<br /> Angel hair pasta with shrimp, peppers, onions, garlic<br /> »Ropa vieja (shredded beef brisket stewed with tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, green pepper, onions, brown gravy)<br /> »Lechon asado (Cuban roasted pork in chunks with garlic mojo sauce)<br /> Arroz con pollo (chicken and saffron rice, tomato, olive oil) <br /> »Pollo Cubano (spicy fried chicken, garlic, pepper, lemon<br /> »Liborio steak (flank steak, tomato-seasoned gravy, topped with a fried egg)<br /> »Bistec relleno de camarones (shrimp, tomato sauce, green peppers, onions stuffed between two steaks<br /> Grilled pork loin<br /> »Caldereta (stewed lamb, red wine, garlic, pepper, onions, rice)<br /> Grilled pork loin, garlic, lemon, red wine, tangy sauce<br /> »Bistec empanisado (thin-cut panneed steak, garlic, lime, herbs and onions)<br /> »Cuban steak <br /> Liborio combo plate (roast pork, beef brisket, baked chicken)<br /> Grilled rack of lamb<br /> Grilled chicken breast<br /> Grilled, shrimp-stuffed chicken breast<br /> »Spanish seafood paella (shrimp, chicken and fish)<br /> Camarones ala criolla (shrimp Creole)<br /> <em><strong>Sandwiches</strong></em><br /> »Cuban sandwich (roast pork, ham, cheese, pickles on French bread, heated on grill press)<br /> Steak sandwich, grilled onions<br /> »Medianoche (like a Cuban, but with sweet bread) <br /> Pork sandwich, French bread<br /> Grilled chicken sandwich, French bread<br /> »Ropa vieja sandwich (beef brisket, French bread)<br /> Grilled tuna, French bread<br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> »Flan (caramel custard)<br /> Vanilla cheesecake<br /> Guava shell<br /> »Tres leches cake
Deficiencies
Liborio has always had a consistency problem, mostly involving the occasional dish which tastes as if it were the last one from a batch made yesterday.
For Best Results
The specials are the best bets. They include a good soup (particularly the black bean, and lentil soup's delicious, too) and two or three entrees.
Bonus Ratings
1
Attitude
1
Environment
1
Local Color
2
Value