Tiffin Inn
Backstory
The Metairie Tiffin Inn is the last standing of a small chain around New Orleans and Baton Rouge. They opened in 1974 and seem to have changed almost nothing since then. For most of its history, the Tiffin Inn was a 24-hour restaurant, a fact that made it more prominent than it might otherwise have been.
Dining Room
The place was built in the Art Nouveau decor popular in the early 1970s, with Tiffany-style lamps. (But the name "tiffin" is a British word for a light midday meal.) The biggest change in the dining environment came when smoking--in which an unusually large number of the patrons indulged--was banned by law. Maybe it's my imagination, but the air inside still has a lingering odor to me. On the other hand, the place doesn't register as dirty, just very well worn. Representatives of the sheriff's office always seem to occupy a booth or two.
Why It's Essential
A certain percentage of the dining population--one not predictable by income, education, or location--hews to the idea that a really seedy restaurant is more likely than a nice-looking one to serve great food. A friend of mine named this oddity of taste "Sleazy Chic." It is in strong evidence at this old, oversize diner at one of the low spots on Veterans Boulevard. It's usually busy, especially on weekends at breakfast time, with people who will swear to you that here is the best breakfast in New Orleans. Absolutely not--but it's not as bad as the place looks, which would be terrible indeed.
Why It's Good
The whole menu revolves around pancakes, which are prepared and served in a style you will find familiar if you've ever been to one of the Original Pancake Houses, a loose nationwide chain whose superb work with flapjacks was widely copied by places like the Tiffin Inn in the 1960s and 1970s. (The German pancake--almost a soufflee, baked in the oven--is the marker dish of the style.) All the other breakfast standards are reasonably well-made and very large. At lunch and dinner, the menu eases into burgers, sandwiches, salads, cheap chops, and fried seafood.
Most Interesting Dishes
<em><strong>Breakfast (served at all hours)</strong></em><br /> »Pancakes of all kinds and toppings<br /> »German pancakes (baked)<br /> »Apple pancake (baked)<br /> French toast.<br /> Pigs in a blanket.<br /> Waffles<br /> »Omelettes<br /> Standard breakfast combinations<br /> Hash brown potatoes<br /> Grits<br /> <em><strong>Lunch and dinner entrees</strong></em><br /> Ribeye steak<br /> Chopped sirloin steak, onions and brown gravy<br /> Chicken fried steak<br /> Pork chops<br /> Fried chicken half<br /> Hamburgers<br /> Club sandwich<br /> Reuben sandwich<br /> BLT<br /> Grilled cheese sandwich<br /> Fried fish sandwich<br /> Shrimp salad sandwich<br /> Tuna salad sandwich<br /> Roast beef sandwich.<br /> Fried oysters, catfish, shrimp, or combination platter<br /> <em><strong>Salads</strong></em><br /> Shrimp salad<br /> Tuna salad<br /> Chef's salad<br /> Fruit salad plate<br /> Cottage cheese and fruit salad<br /> <em><strong>Desserts</strong></em><br /> Cheesecake with strawberries or blueberries.<br /> Pecan pie<br /> Apple pie
Deficiencies
A thorough renovation to both the menu and the premises is an obvious need, but it would temporarily upset the Sleazy Chic contingent.
For Best Results
The pancakes are actually very good, and made better by an assortment of syrups and other garnishes. The rest of the menu is unappealing, although every so often I hear about great daily specials that I have never found myself. (The fried chicken is a particularly elusive specialty.)
Bonus Ratings
1
Local Color
2
Value
Holiday Ratings
1
Christmas
0
Thanksgiving