
A Bakery Beauty
Bertie's in Covington

Bertie's in Covington
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Lakeview
I vividly remember a dinner I had there a few years ago. Mr. Tony came to the table with the hug he's famous for. Dale, the dining room manager, came out too. "You want some tripe? We have some pasta puttanesca tonight. No, wait--pasta Milanese. Too bad you didn't come in last week, because we had the last of the home-grown cucuzzas." On and on. This is Tony Angello's. And then comes the food. Pasta in a shape I'd never seen before (like little horns), with chunks of beef and a spicy sauce of tomatoes and cream. Oysters Bienville, always good here. The artichoke soup. Last time I ate this was in early 1977, while working up a review. It tasted tonight exactly as it did then.
French Quarter
Among the memories carried around by lifetime Orleanians, the circumstances surrounding the eating of one's first raw oyster loom vividly. For a long time, the population could be divided into those who had their first oyster at Felix's, and those who did so across the street at the Acme. What with all the oysters bars in town now, this effect has transmogrified into a predictor of the oyster-eater's age. If your first was from either Felix's or the Acme, you are probably over fifty.
City Park Area
Food Almanac — June 19
First Father's Day. Fat Cat. Sugar Pie. Cherry Garcia. Snail Bay. Dry Martinis. Kung Pao. Angel. Cheerios. Mint.
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