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Contemporary Creole

Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon

Atchafalaya may be the ultimate New Orleans restaurant, at least for the younger half of the gourmet world. The food is great, inspired by the traditional ingredients and flavors but without more than a handful of classic Creole restaurant dishes. The place is an old neighborhood joint much in need of thorough restoration. But the prices reflect that. Instead of lunch, Atchafalaya offers a first-class brunch almost every day of the week. Even the restaurant's motto--"New Orleans's Only Five-A Restaurant"--is clever. The only drawback is getting a table--never easy when you need one.

Food Almanac — June 12

Crabmeat Au Gratin Day

Havarti. Lillian Russell. Spoon Digging. Crabmeat Au Gratin. Crab Pond. Crab Fat. What's Fresh? Broccoli And Bush.

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