Metairie 2: Orleans Line To Houma Blvd

Oh, how we love unassuming little cafes hidden away on side streets. Especially if the food is good and the people pleasant. That's how it is at Buddy's, a tight but cute little dinette with a classic New Orleans neighborhood menu. Plus fried chicken. My hat is off to them for using the spelling "poor boys" in their official logo.

Uptown 2: Washington To Napoleon

Atchafalaya may be the ultimate New Orleans restaurant, at least for the younger half of the gourmet world. The food is great, inspired by the traditional ingredients and flavors but without more than a handful of classic Creole restaurant dishes. The place is an old neighborhood joint much in need of thorough restoration. But the prices reflect that. Instead of lunch, Atchafalaya offers a first-class brunch almost every day of the week. Even the restaurant's motto--"New Orleans's Only Five-A Restaurant"--is clever. The only drawback is getting a table--never easy when you need one.

Mandeville