Harahan

The fact that the parking lot is surfaced with oyster shells should tell you something. It's the first of many impressions that this is an old-style, close-to-the-water combination seafood market and cafe. It's like the joints and the people you see after driving a hundred miles into the Louisiana wetlands, except that it's in Harahan, which is only slightly remote from the city. All the freshness and sense of place that this implies are indeed borne out in the cooking.

Covington

Uptown 3: Napoleon To Audubon

It's not true that New Orleans diners hate beautiful restaurants with atmosphere. But it's easy to come to that conclusion, given the number of ramshackle dining rooms that attract large, loyal clienteles. The premises are interesting in decor, but are spartan and less than comfortable. For most of its history, you couldn't get a reservation for fewer than five people, and waiting out back with a glass of wine was inevitable. And, somehow, chic. But time goes on. Under the new ownership, reservations are easy to get and the menu is a little more expensive. The place looks the same.